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It is unlikely that the wire is broken in the harness. Not saying it can't be but usualy they break, deteriorate in exposed places. If you have power at the starter sol, the starter is toast, If you have no power at the starter sol then go back to the doghead relay and test there. Obviously...

They are directly relative. I can easily do over 70 now too without screamin the motor or burning up belts. It really is the way these trucks should have come.

I have a Rancho in my 1008 but I doubt they make them anymore. Mine was used.

Sure it's the seal ? I just pulled the pan off my 1008. It was the rear rubber seal on the pan gasket not the RMS. Pulling an oil pan off one of these should take no longer than 5 mins with an air ratchet. A word of advice though...If you leave the truck overnight with the pan off or leave it...

23$ a quart from the Dodge Dealer. A little cheaper from Quad 4x4 but add shipping and it's not.

DD=direct drive starter GR=Gear reduction. CUCV's come with 24v DD. A newer NV4500 should work. I chose the older one because I like the external slave setup better. ALL NV's command a high price. The newer ones are good for a future Cummins swap and the older ones are coveted by...

The disc in the starter sol(On the starter) could be burned. When you get no cranky...the best thing to do is start right at the starter and see if the Sol is getting energized and work back from there.

Really ??? Wow. Levielles ?? The Alt was a reman and he only banged me 60$. I put it on and all is well again. I go there alot so maybe he gives me a better deal.

Did the Doghead relay mod. What a great sticky. Also I beat the balls of it at a mudbog and set Gen2 on fire washing it...[thumbzup]:mrgreen::driver:

I forgot to update but I got a 6.2 flywheel brand new and a 6.5 and put them side by side and the offset was 19/32 on both so I had to redo the pan gasket and when I had the starter out again , I retried the 12v GR one with the big opening and it fit fine. I guess I was in a hurry the first time...

Which one ? I deal with the one in Somers. They have been pretty good to me.

Well for now just going to replace it. The local junky has a drivers side one for 60$. IIRC I can use it on the pass side correct ? I could use an answer by 4 pm est if anyone knows otherwise I'm gonna just try it. It was a crime to see an M1008 in the junkyard but I could not get them to sell...

BTW as far as cost I paid 1100 for mine and that was a steal. The GM ones 92-94 ext slave are real hard to comeby especially with the bellhousing. The later ones have an internal slave which I dislike personally. I have heard rumors that the 92-94 ext slave bellhousing hits the front driveshaft...

Probably a getrag.

I bought my tool at sears. They actually sell them. In a pinch you can use a pick to get the lock ring out and then to reinstall cut a piece of copper water pipe(I forget what size but wanna say 3/4 inch) just long enough so you can get the nut started and the nut will push the lockring down...

You have no idea...:mrgreen: 4 hrs with a pressure washer and then I got water in Gen 2 and it went on fire and nearly burned the truck down. I am going to convert to a serp belt and single alt. This was not a good day for the truck. First is would not start. That Doghead relay sticky is a...

Read my thread. ll your questions will be answered...:D 208 bolts right up to it like it was made for it. There are other issues. I documented everything with lots of pics.

I saw it at trailrex...It worked really good. I barely have any mud in the engine bay.

plain ol 35 inch BFG AT's. The guys at Pirate4x4 laughed at me and said I'd sink...little do they know the power of an M1008 and a loose nut behind the wheel...that poor truck...:driver:

And they say 6.2s have no balls.... I actually caught air on the way out.