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Do you have power to the #4 & 5 terminals on the controller? Those are the ones that go to the governor. You could check at the governor, but it is kind of near the fan.

Here is a video by the guy who was selling controllers: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?104558-M1031-generator-engagement-video Kieth's start up procedure is correct in post below; http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?92848-M1031-Generator

Never thought about it much before, but the lowly string trimmer or chain saw uses similar device to operate at all angles.

Or this one I posted in an earlier thread; If I was going to go though the trouble of a major engine swap, I'd go for a 4bt or 6bt with two valves per cylinder. I'd stay away from anything that added computer chip management to my 30 year old truck. Just my opinion.

Does anyone know if the TMs for the 1031 are cleared for general distribution?

Hi, your truck is a M1031, as you probably know. There are a few things on the old control board that can be adjusted. Is the plug in relay present? Attached are commercial manuals for it.

Latex over a oily paint like that Rustolium Rusty primer probably wont stick too long. Once I used an industrial latex paint on a 12 yard sander over rustioium, and it came off in sheets. Next time try Rustolium smoke gray or something. Once you go to an oil base, that is pretty much it, you...

If this one sticks and cooks also, then you could try the "doghead modifiacation", which is simply replacing a weak relay with a better one. The original relay was just a heater control relay, a testament to how cheaply GM wanted to fill the contract. If starter gear binding is the problem...

Have used similar process on Chevys, my Dodge 2500, as well as an extensive floor and rocker replacement in a 300D Mercedes. I do have a Mig welder, but like the epoxy, as it is less likely to rust in hidden areas. I use 3M 08115 epoxy, which seems similar to JB weld. Low odor, reasonable set...

Welcome, from Mass. Also, whereabouts?

If the wiper motor is on its way out,(like armature/winding short) it could draw enough amps to affect the whole system. Replacing or testing the wiper motor is a good start. The fuel heater circuit is off the wiper fuse also, another thing to check if there is a short.

Here is a picture of the one I installed, if it is any help. Red pencil pointing to pick up wire wrapped on the main.

Now you've spilled the can, and the worms are all over the porch. Look into it, as I know you will not believe me.

There is nothing wrong with changing to spin on filters. But once the leak is solved, the stock system works too. There is a fuel heater in the stock Stanodyne base, so depending on where you live, one might want to incorporate a fuel heater in your spin on system also. I know some of the...

You can just plug the little hole with a sheet metal screw or self tapping bolt slathered in JB weld. In picture below it is the hole in the center one, or where the red pencil is pointing.

Thought I'd share about the 'van of worms' , actually an ex air force flight line van, with a 6.2 and a 4L80. Filled with commercial mowing equipment, not the coolest vehicle I have, but one of the more profitable. :grin:

Calm down, ace. I posted nothing insulting to you. Not sure how well your genset is wired, but you?...heh heh

never mind, good luck

That is correct, the timing is advanced for quicker and cleaner warm up of the engine. It sounds so loud because its is basically pre detonating, therefor should be load free until kick down, unless you are late for work or something. If you live on a side street, or down a dirt road, it...

Part of the noise is the high idle, part is the timing advance. Everyone has a different approach I guess, but I usually let it warm up and kick down before I hit the road. Seems a little easier on the rings. You could un plug it a the two points by the IP. Your idea of looping it around...