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Here is one of the threads on the subject, there are others, I typed in 'kats' in the search bar. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?136343-kats-tank-heater

I guess you figured it out. Mine is 3.75 inches from top of axle to rubber bumper on both sides. Stock truck with gen & compressor, vice, maybe 250 pounds worth of tools & supplies, 16K miles.

There is a horn relay diode located up above the fuse box. It is for radio noise suppression and not normally needed, if you cut it, the horn will stop going, if that is the problem.

No, but the driveshaft was bent and the transfer case was cracked.

A 1028 I found for a friend came from Ft Drum with a full tank of gasoline.

You should make sure your thermostat is working well. Low engine operating temp is bad for motor, besides making for a chilly ride.

If you are going to install a temp gauge, I would remove idiot light sensor and install a manual/bulb type gauge. If wondering about doing the rings or lower end, the oil pressure test is a good idea. A compression test would also be informative.

Spares specific for engine compartment; Alternator, starter, set of glow plugs, glow plug relay, fuel filter, lift pump, belts. I have these on hand, and more, but that is a good start if you are using one or more as daily drivers.

Sometimes the glow plug relay gets pitted or fails to make full contact for some reason. Still sounds like it has engaged, but if you have a working volt meter, you might notice it does not draw as much. Relay failure like this can be intermittent, as relay throws, but contact is not...

Also un plug the radio suppression capacitor on blower motor and plug wire directly into blower spade connector. This is often the problem.

On the radiator hose problem, there is usually a sheet metal guard attached with the hose clamp to protect hose from belt. See picture. It would be easier and neater to replace battery tray. I would check with the regular vendors here that deal with CUCVs.

Nice walk though of the repair. Fuse melting due to poor contact and arching is pretty common on the wiper circuit also. The exciter circuit and light for #1 alternator are also on that blower motor fuse. (brown wire) Might want to check alternator output if you have any more problems with...

That is a later model civilian glow plug control relay chevy used. My 93 G-30 with 6.2 has one like that. They seem pretty reliable.

One guy with an 002 on the other forum used a momentary switch and a 9V radio battery, said it worked and has lasted a few years.

Click click click usually means low voltage/amps in one or both batteries. Fully charge each battery and try to start before you try anything else.

And as the night wears on 15 minuets at a time, another beer or so and that truck or gen set looks better and better. A conspiracy, or just good marketing? Ha ha.

Someone is discussing similar conversion over on the Stak. Consensus there is one might need to battery flash after conversion, but they are using a different AVR. How is yours set up? Does it still field flash with master switch?

The gauges fail, also the frequency transducer (in your 4th picture), they also fail. Check the connections on these too.

I'll have to check that also. I bet it is more of a problem with 002s than 003s due as the 2 cyl units vibrate so much more.

There should be a pressure switch on the air tank, pretty much like any compressor.