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As bad as war is, 'civil war' is worse. Been following this closely on different international news feeds. Wishing for peace for all of you. Thank you for the pictures.

Am pretty sure it is not simple to bypass main breaker (to use a conventional one) if you want to keep original gauge & control circuitry. The 6 18g wires that go in & out of breaker are involved in a few circuits.

There was another tread with similar name you might want to check out. Linked to one of more useful posts. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?91430-How-have-you-civilized-your-MEP-Generators&p=1329914&viewfull=1#post1329914

I have never done that because they are low temp, clean and your are putting same fasteners back in.

Off the top of my head, if CJ-5 frame is 1969 or older, it should not be too hard. The motor,(L head & F head aside) tranny, and a lot of other parts were the same from 1946 until then.

Hooks to number 1 fuel injector line, power supply and ground. Pretty easy.

Check out www.tinytach.com for an easy to install tach.

That shaft moving up and down is the normal sign of worn steering gear. It is possible some contamination from gear got in pump, but if it sounds OK, (is not noisy during operation) it probably is OK. If you clean out pump & lines when you replace gear it should be fine. I have replaced...

On a similar note, does anyone know what size torch tanks are supposed to fit the holders. My Airco mediums do not really fit.

The PTO driven 1031 generator is a 12KW brushless alternator. The welding plug in the truck is 208 3 phase, 45 amp max. I would be interested to know what welder it was originally equipped with, although the modern ones are lighter and can do more.

Like Isaac said, a flex line with metal fittings. Looks a lot like the lines between the fuel filters but has a 45 degree bend fitting at IP end.

Am not aware of any 'computers'( a couple circuit boards yes) on stock 1009, and they were pre 1988. Some pictures of truck and wiring would be useful.

It could be both of your alts are under charging. These things sat out a lot, if a high hour units, might check alts' comutators, clean with scotch bright, check condition of brushes, etc.

Wheels should not have drag, nor should you feel any play. Pre load should be almost neutral, the torque is to be sure bearings are fully seated, then back off first nut until almost loose. The second lock nut should be tight against first nut, install locking mechanism. I guess that is a...

You could just buy the re build kit from them. But if you know you have a 27SI type 100, you should be able to find the parts. Most of the regulators on the page you linked are for type 200, so, you probably want the D101HD. Test diodes with continuity tester on multimeter. Should only pass...

I don't think it will work with thermostat closed. I believe the heater hose coming out of the crossover pipe is the supply, and the one to the radiator is return. That might show flow direction with thermostat closed.

Why do you want to replace them? Try not to fix anything that is not broken.

I would agree that if pouring water on it helps it start hot, IP needs to be rebuilt. Last year the mow van was doing this,(one of those blue air force cube vans with a 6.2) the crew was only allowed to shut it off if they were at a place with a hose. A good dose of cold tap water right on the...

I don't know about that, in WW2 all sorts things were directed to war effort. In this country, mostly things were not commandiered, because they were paid for. But factories were directed what to make and to what specs, but they were paid for it. Lots of ships were assigned were to government...

The 018 has a 4A084 motor. Probably one of the louder, heavier and thirstier ways to get 20HP. The gas motors would have better throttle response than the diesels for go cart. But a hydrostatic go cart would be cool. Please post pictures if you go for it.