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Nothing ugly about that. Change all fluids and filters, check out the WIKI here on the 002, download the TMs , read some threads here about the 002 in on this forum. I'd worry about paint after it was running and making power.
If the flex lines are only 2 years old, I would think they would be good, unless some really cheep import parts(who knows, these days). Take flex line off and test with air, it should be unobstructed.
The black fluid part makes me wonder if some other (petroleum based) contamination got in...
Your combination valve may be stuck. That controls light and also stops flow to fluid low (ie leaking) part of system (front or back) so the other half still works. If you did have DOT 5 in there at first, that might explain it sticking, as mixing the two types of fluid can really gum things...
Like I replied on the "stak", am only aware of the not so good diagrams in the '34' TM. If anyone has anything better, I would like to see it too. Having messed with this myself, will say again, good luck. And there are 2 different switches.
It is common for the rubber flex lines of this age to internally collapse even though they look fine from the outside. Suggest replacing all 3 if they are original.
The fluid probably is not the problem unless you mixed DOT 3 (alcohol based) with DOT 5 (silicone based), in that case you need...
If it is a CUCV cab and wiring harness you put in (with the exception of the M-1010), it should work. Anything else, swap the CUCV harness from old cab, unless you are into a wiring project.
Check ground terminal on left above parking brake pedal, cab harness needs to be grounded there to...
I have brought back weak 6TAGM s with a Bosch C-7 charger. Fairly inexpensive and has settings for AGM (absorbed glass mat) as well as conventional batteries. Has a 24V setting too, which is nice.
About 3 inches, if I recall. It is basically a dowel. If it somehow did break near cam end, I guess it would end up in oil pan. It is more likely in it's guide in block, if it all did not come out.
If you wanted to, you could break the ground path of coolant lines with a section of fuel or hydraulic line. Double up the clamps for security. Not sure how this would pertain to topic on this thread, but have used fuel line as a repair piece for broken lines in past with no problems.
I have found that if you mix a 31 (or any other standard lead acid battery) with a 6TMF, it will cause premature failure (usually to the 6TMF) due to different output and charging profiles of the two battery types. Matched pair is best.
The TMF stands for' 'thin metal film', and has some...
The one I have has Amp Trap ATQR3 3amp. The TB with this modification (TB-11-6115-741-24) calls for KTK3 3amp fast acting NSN 5920-00-225-9983. Someone uploaded that TB, but I can not find it on forum now. It has a couple of improvement/fixes for these units. Will try to post.
The TB is...
That is what I would have figured too, but the parts TMs list them as having the same NSN, so I thought it was controlled by R-3 setting. Is the TM wrong? (would not be the first time). Is there a way to change set point? Others seem to have agreed it is the same. I really don't know.
Comparing the 802 with the 002, I think I like the rugged simplicity of the 002 better. If I did not have an ASK and external muffler on my main 002, the lower noise level of the 802 would be more of a plus.
Compared to modern consumer grade generators, the 802 is a much better unit.
Hard to know how bad it is without seeing. You could check bearings clearances with (drawing a blank here, those plastic ribbons of different colors).
Is oil pressure OK?
Anyway, if you are going to get that far into it, and the top end of the motor is good, would advise buying a 'crank...