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If you can buy a new engine compartment harness from one of the vendors here (Hillbilliywizzard comes to mind), it might save you some grief. Hard to undo hacking, splicing and burning. If it went beyond fusible links, or they were already by passed, a burnt wire in harness can melt into...

I do not see what is ugly about that. Some cheep paint and a good going over, you have an nice local work truck/daily driver with no computers in the system. Under the hood looks pretty original, check to see air cleaner is seated correctly, intake looks about 45 degrees off.

Aside from the above mentioned fuel filter base, which is usually the problem, there could be a small leak anywhere in fuel line. Have had the metal line develop a pin hole along cross member behind cab due to vibration, rotted and loose rubber lines like above poster. If you presurize the...

I have 3 currently registered. They get used in landscape business almost every day.

Sometimes when I suspect I have a contaminated tank, I cut old fuel filter to see how badly clogged it was. If there are signs of alge, time to clean tank. Another option is to blow back main fuel line to tank with compressed air, if it frees up fuel flow, it will probably be temporary and you...

There are two 2 prong flashers that plug into fuse panel. The one in right lower corner is for turn signals, the left upper is for hazards. Recommend using commercial grade if you have to replace them.

Is the red stuff the color this shaft seal? There are other parts in IP made of this also. This is from a IP that left me stranded because I was in denial that I needed to replace it.

Guess I'm stuck in split phase mode. Got a garage kit from your town, came out good.

In 120/240 mode, you should have L0 connected as neutral. It may work OK with a single 240V test load, but if you hook it to your house or try to run any load where the 120V legs are not balanced, very bad things can happen. (I have some experience in this, though not intentionally) If I...

Is it running 17.5A each on L1 & L3?

Here is a recent post with a good place to start. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?126973-horn-contact-replacement

If it is for the 1008 in your sig line, order drag link ends for an '84 K-30. Maybe you ended up with 1009 part numbers. Other common problems affecting steering play are worn tie rod ends, tired out steering gear, steering gear bolts coming loose from frame, and cracked frame at steering...

Nice job. Might want to do something to protect the copper tubing.

If wiring to relay and relay is working, you should be able to here relay click when you push the horn button. If is good to there, remove the radio suppression capacitor from circuit (in your second picture, it just un plugs) that is hooked up before horn, clean contacts and ground. If still...

This is one of many useful posts you should check out in the CUCV sticky. Note picture and location of horn relay. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?50551-CUCV-Switches-Diodes-Relays

When I do that job, I use crows foot and remove the intake manifold. Good to see what is going on, and I don't like to climb up behind motors as much as I used to.

Is CB1 set (circuit breaker, inside the front access panel). Is the red emergency stop button pushed in? (push to stop, pull out to run)

Since accessing the top of fuel tank at sender to clean tank screen can be a lot of work, if you suspect the 'sock' may be clogged at the fuel uptake line in the tank, blow compressed air into fuel tank from line before fuel (lift) pump. If fuel flow is improved, clean fuel tank and sock.

If it is a rebuild, is it possible the bearings, impeller were pressed in too far?

Rapco sells rattle cans of paint that is pretty close to the color of the CARC paint that is on it now.