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A crows foot, some wobbly extensions...a mechanics mirror.. you may be able to do it. Taking the manifold off does not take that long though, sometimes the direct approach is faster and less frustrating. Let us know how it works out.

It should engage deeper than that. Flex plate may be buggered and bent. With the effort involved in replacement, would recommend you buy a new flex plate (what you are calling flywheel). Get the HD one for the 6.2.

First guess would be fuel leak from return line or injector line. Mixed with engine dirt, a fuel leak can sort of look like oil.

Since you will regularly be starting at less than 20 degrees f, you would benefit from block heater. There are threads that cover this here.

Do the connecting rod bearings from other pistons show that much wear? If not, might be from the 10k miles rapping. It may be ok, but I would check bearing and journal clearance since it is out.

I did not bother to clean mine up, just replaced it, don't like to send the crew out with a rapping engine. It had the pattern of a glow plug end stamped repeatedly in piston, the end itself disintegrated. I think the wrist pin holes get slightly elongated when plug end is jammed against head.

It could also just be rotted return lines. It is hard to see where leaks originate sometimes unless engine is clean and dry. A quick pressure washing will help you find source of leak.

I had a 6.2 that had sucked a glow plug that made a clacking sound. Replacing the piston and wrist pin did correct the problem. I put in a crank kit (re turned crank with matched bearings)and oil pump as well because the oil pressure was a little low and I had the motor out. Truck was only...

There are oil pressure and coolant temperature sensors on the 6.2 motor. You can probably replace these with the ones that come with your new cluster, but you may need another adapter for the oil pressure sender(judging from parts description on link). To get the tachometer working you will...

Had that problem with an 1008. I located right place to access latch on another truck and cut a hole with hole saw. After I had released hood and replaced cable, I put some aluminum tape on inside and skim coated with bondo. Just took some pictures of truck out back. Bondo has shrunk over...

I was told these were the pipes they used on MEPs in sandbag emplacements and the like, but I don't know.

The tubing is 2 in, the inlet on the sleeve is 1.25 in.

I'm sure a modern automotive flex section could be incorporated into MEP exhaust system to isolate vibrations. I wonder what these aluminum tubes were for, temporary installations?

Has anyone tried the 10 ft aluminum flex tubes? I bought some of these from a member here, but have not tried them yet.

I don't see the point of all that horsepower on 5+/1 gears. Zero to 30 will be pretty fast, but your just dumping gasoline after that.

Don't know about the rock crawling perspective, but I have had a few truck's frames loosened up, including a 1008 converted to dump truck. Once the rivets start to flex, the forces can open up floor seem in cab and they can be little off track going down the road. In the early 60s, chevy did...

I converted a MEP-018 reconnection switch to switch phases on my 1031. It would work on any similar sized 12 lead generator, I think. link below shows project so far. #15 Editing to note that the 120/240 off the MEP-018 switch is in Delta configuration.

If there is continuity between L0 and L1 when reconnection switch is in 120 single phase, would that indicate modification was already done? I guess there could be low load continuity though other circuits that would show up on multimeter but not carry sufficient load. ?

The reconnection switch is indeed a 'complicated beast'. The 003 I was having trouble with earlier this year clearly had this modification done to it, as there is a black 4awg jumper added in the reconnection switch wires and lots of wire numbers marked in pencil on switch. Something is still...

The neutral (LO) to ground wire is held on by nut (1/2 inch wrench I believe) on back side of ground terminal nut on frame. I unbolt it and tape it off, and make a note (on tape) that neutral /ground bond has been disconnected. That way unit can be put back to separately derived configuration...