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I have a fixed 115 psi regulator at the moment, but carry an adjustable one. As it is stored as liquid, like you say, I get alot of gas from the bottle. Enough to fill about 20-25 tires. Don't know how far that would get me down the road, I'll have to experiment. Oh, temperature is no issue...

It seems obvious, but since am new to this truck maybe not. I have a 20 lb CO2 cylinder that I use to inflate the CUCV Blazer tires and to run air tools on the trail. In the event of an LMTV air compressor failure (not unheard of) I could simply plumb that tank into the front emergency brake...

I don't understand ???

Oh, it got right past me that a Detroit is available. That will be my first mod: before seat upgrade, paint, solar panels, radios. KG6QNS

No, there is more than one way: Ask someone who has done it.

I'm sure there is plenty of opinion on the interweb about welding the rear diff closed. Do any of you have personal or anecdotal experience actually doing it? Consequences? I understand the tires will chirp, my Detroit locked Blazer does that and I kinda like it :)

No, I don't do snow.

I agree, Supr, it looks like the first two items in the LMTV tool kit will be locktite and torquewrench.

This thread freaked me out when I read it, so I asked Jack to make sure the alternator bolts are tight and should I get the drive lines balanced? His reply: "The factory fixed the vibration problem years ago, they put all new drive lines on and changed the flywheel housing on the first batch...

I agree, coach, that there is a technique to driving with the front locked. A little blip of the throttle lines everything up on the Blazer ok. I'll have to learn more about the LMTV drive system.

Just got my LMTV, so just now exploring old threads. I am very much interested in locking both ends. I did that with the CUCV Blazer= all the difference in the world. Will have to sell the Blazer to buy the axles, I reckon :)

I've got a motorhome that has about 12 ft of body behind the rear axle. I find that its very easy, when making a right turn, to take out a vehicle in the lane to the left of me....

looks like I got a CAT.. Um, well, by the pound its a good deal...yeah, that's it. Guess I'll go hang out at the FMTV threads.

The M35A3 that I used to own didn't have that HEUI feature, did it?

Oh, the FMTV has a yellow CAT.......oooooooooooh.....

Whole thing comes off; 44 pounds worth.

Why do the hubs stick out so far ? The dually hubs on mine look like this. Stock backspacing H1s bolt right up, the hubs do not stick out past the tires.

A trick I use during assembly: lay a bead of silicon RTV into the O-ring groove, install the new O-ring, assemble the wheel/tire but do not inflate right away. Wait a day or so, at least overnight. THEN infllate. If you inflate before the RTV has cured, then it just squeezes out.

Putting the Blazer on a diet is a formidable task, with unsatisfying results. You see all I have stripped off mine and its near GVW, well, would be if suspension was stock. There are multiple threads on the interweb with titles like "K5 on a diet" that will give you ideas. Some are difficult to...

That is correct. The CO2 is stored in liquid form, like propane, so there is alot more "air" available than a scuba tank would store. Regulated at 115 psi, can fill a 37" tire in less than a minute. Also can run pnuematic tools = my favorite thing to do. Well, second favorite. There is no worry...