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TM9-2320-361-34 sec 3-11 page 3-34.. jacking up one side will give you more clearance to remove the pan. simple job.

there are other radiators that could be made to fit. You would no longer have a "original" radiator, but at 3K, I would find a good diesel truck radiator with comparable cooling capacity and size, and make it fit. things to keep in mind would be the coolant volume of the radiator, thickness...

C-rats had green something in them often, and you could scrape paint with the crackers.

I found Stanadyne at Walmart for 71$ a gallon. that will treat 2560 gallons of diesel, and bring the IP lubrication to specs. That is the most Research Proven, cost effective way for me.

A few more results...Optilube Summer blend (best value) 189 micron improvement and only uses 1.1 oz dose per 26 gal....as opposed to Walmart TWC3 at 15oz dose. Stanadyne uses 3 oz dose.... these are rounded out numbers. Based on what the price is in your area, you can pick which additive is cost...

I tried to copy/paste the whole research with results but failed. So I'll post the condensed version ....based on a 26gal tank. Opti lube XPD...319 micron improvement @ 4.75$ .....Walmart superrich TWC3 for Outboard..162 micron improvement @ 1.07...Stanadyne Lubricity..157 micron (this was a...

Walmart Supertech TWC3 for Outboard engines.

this helps with trouble shooting for me.

@ Rusty......thats what I thought my diagram showed. there is no "constant circulation" back to the tank without the booster pump on the injection pump running and over coming the bypass valve. If the engine is not running/started, and the power is on, the In tank pump is supplying up to 12 psi...

I was under the impression the In tank fuel pump is centrifugal, not positive displacement (gear). which would mean that with the bypass valve set at 60-70psi, the pump would run but cavatate unless the bypass was open or the engine was running. Is there another route for the fuel to flow back...

I slit a piece of vacuum hose and put them on the edge so the door wouldn't vibrate on both the tool and battery box.

If anyone here is worried, or wondering if they under/over heat something, the local welding store should sell a "crayon" called Tempistick. They have different melting ranges to choose from. Draw a line on the metal and if it melts, then its reached that desired temp, if not, apply more heat...

former San Andreas Ca.......now 15 miles northeast of Bonners Ferry Idaho.

mine runs at 125-130F. I checked/tested the thermostat too. I'll let you know how good the heater works this winter at -10F. can you run it with the cap off and see "flow" in the radiator? I would have doubts about the water pump going bad, as they usually just loose the seal and leak coolant...

Ive never changed a u joint on the vehicle. I suppose it could be done, but I just take the shaft off and use my press. Before I had a press, Id use a hammer and sockets, because my vice wasn't big enough to press them in. Be careful you don't loose or pinch the new needle bearings, the blue...

does this help?

11x20 tires on the rears do Not allow for clearance at the trunion for tri-bar chains. I have to run singles on the outside wheels. Turning is a chore in tight areas under 50 feet of radius.

installed a Bendix AD-9 air dryer. took about 3 hours because the air line plumbing is a pain to get to with the spare tire in the way. BTW I had to remove the air dryer after mounting it on the frame member behind the air tanks, to get to the air inlet lines. I should have tapped into the air...

If the rubber cup on the piston in the master cylinder is scored, fluid will pass by it and you wouldn't lose fluid.

wouldn't you lose fluid if it is a air pack issue? I'd be inclined to give the master cylinder a closer look.