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I just ran the NSN for a multifuel engine in a can and it came back as Q6 so it may be limited to trucks and trailers. No, just did the NSN for the generator 2920009092483 and it came back Q3.

In the past, most parts to a MV carried the same demil code as the MV. Anyone checked the NSN of any parts to see they have been changed ? I just did a CUCV alternator and it came back Q6: 6 NON-CRITICAL FSC/FSG MLI OR NON-SENSITIVE CCLI. REQUIRES MUTILATION OVERSEAS.

I was torn between 1 and 3, but CA EPA has already banned them as most of us on this list use them.

That one looked nice from the pics

This is something new isn't it? Here is the current definition of demil Q: CCL ITEMS - MUTILATION TO THE POINT OF SCRAP REQUIRED OUTSIDE THE UNITED STATES. IN THE UNITED STATES, MUTILATION REQUIREMENT DETERMINED BY THE DEMIL INTEGRITY CODE. DOD TRADE SECURITY CONTROLS REQUIRED IN THE UNITED...

Yes there is and when you run a M1009 NSN this is what you get: 3 CRITICAL FSC/FSG MLI OR SENSITIVE CCLI. REQUIRES MUTILATION WORLDWIDE. From: https://www.webflis.dlis.dla.mil/WEBFLIS/pub/pub_search.aspx NSN used: 2320011232665 same for a M35A2 NSN 2320000771617 and M105A2 NSN 2330001418050

Do they give a definition for commercial use? If it is the same as DOT you wont be able to take anything to shows to sell.

MS Farm Bureau, 620 per year for 3 M35s, liability and Uninsured Motorist. Insured as farm trucks.

The brown wire is one that goes to the dash light. It is part of the connector with two wires that plugs into the internal voltage regulator. The other wire should be red and goes to the 24v buss. They both need to be clean for the alternator to work properly. This plug can be bought at the...

I might as well add that most people burn out a fuseable link when they hook up an alternator without an isolated ground on the passenger side.

If you paid someone good money to rebuild the passenger alternator and they did it wrong, I would take it back to them and have them fix their work. There is a good chance you damaged it when you hooked it up. But, to answer your question, you could swap it to the drivers side. I would go...

If you replaced the passenger side alternator, I would check to be sure the ground is still isolated. It is common for rebuilders to not isolate the ground.

I think the point that DD is making and most are missing is that there are original as manufactured trucks selling on GL right now for the same price as highly modified and rebuilt trucks. If you want a truck as an investment, you would be wise to seek these trucks out and hold onto them...

This sounds like the voice of experience. Where did you get your seal?

What I bought may have been old and stiff. It sure looked like the right part. I tore it up removing it and haven't tried to do any thing about since I put it together without a seal. It doesn't want to warm up as it is but that is better than overheating.

This sounds more like the ones I remember selling a while back, but like I said, it has been a while.

GL sold 3 or 4 from gulfport, MS a couple of years ago that had a recent rebuild with very low hours on the engines. This may be one of them. I remember discussing it online at the time. It was either here or on the Mil-veh mailing list If you can find the thread it might give you what they sold...

This was after I had tried every trick I could think of on multiple days to get myself unstuck. I had someone with a cable skidder winch it out. http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/344033_KjMKC#13795012_Uygnb

Please note my last edit. I meant bypass the resistor. Your picture looks like it is still going to the resistor. It looks like you still have a basically stock setup that has been "repaired".

Looks like someone has replaced the stock green wires with the red wires in your pictures. I believe the two orange wires leaving the glowplug relay divide into the 4 green wires that go to each glow plug on each side of motor. I can't tell if they modified the wiring harness any or just...