Search results

Before you start, go to the tab at the top of this page and click on technical manuals. Then click on generator and electrical TMs; Then click on TM's for Generators; then scroll down to the bottom and you should see the TM for the MEP-006a. Scroll through them when you have time, it will show...

I believe your problem is going to be in the voltage regulator. Letting the unit idle, you take a high chance of the voltage regulator frying because the regulator goes crazy because its made to regulate at 60 hertz. If you do get it fixed, don't let it idle, just leave the throttle at 60 hertz...

Ok, when you say full throttle, do you mean you have the throttle all the way out (the motor would be screaming)?? Another question, do you idle the unit when you start it up? Or do you have it start at 1800 RPM?

Here is some information for you. This is information found in TM-34. b. Electrical Malfunctions and Isolation. A malfunction of the main generator is usually indicated by low output voltage, or no voltage output. To isolate a malfunction to the main generator, proceed as follows: (1) Tag...

I don't believe you have an exciter problem. Your formal military fella was correct about exciting the field by holding the start switch to the start position. You can also do this while the generator is already running. If your not getting hertz and voltage, I would think that you have a...

Yes they did. I have not seen an original motor have an id tag. They usually always put the id tags on refurbished and new engine that were made for replacement.

The answer is both, it would matter where the unit was located and how fast they needed back in service. If it is refurbished, it should have a refurbish id plate on the motor.

I also found this one. I had one similar that I put on a unit because of a bad stator. Never had any problems and I also liked not having to worry about the batteries being charged. http://www.amazon.com/Save-Battery-Maintainer-Desulfator-2365-24-W/dp/B008MUHL3O

I've bought a couple of deuces that sat in a field for 12 years. I drained, filtered the fuel with a t-shirt and reused it in the truck. They ran without any problems. The problem is the build up of algae in the containers diesel is stored in. I believe diesel will last a lifetime if store...

Yes, they produce clean power. I use a 002a to power my house when a power failure occurs. I power plasma tvs, computers, outdoor wood furnace and anything else I want. Also don't be fooled by the hours on the units, the hour meters are swapped out a lot. For a true reset, make sure it has the...

I believe the 802a runs the crank in sequence with both cylinders, meaning both cylinders come to TDC at the same time. That is why they are louder and rougher than the 803a. The 803a runs each cylinder 180 out, makes everything run a lot smoother.

I don't know if anyone remembers but Sewerzuk did this exact same thing. He took a MEP-002a engine and set it up for his log splitter. I think at one time, he had a video on youtube.

I have rebuilt several pumps and I've always used a pair of needle nose with the 90 degree nose. I put the pump on the workbench sitting with the spring up and push down with the pliers until the retaining clips are free and then use a pick to get them out or in.

You are correct, if the motor stops and the switch is in the run position, the pumps continue to run.

More than likely its going to be some component on the VR board. There is a capacitor or something that is starting to go bad. I would suggest Isaac-1 idea of getting Jim's updated board. It's a small investment but at least you wouldn't have to worry about the VR board anymore and if you could...

By chance are you using a volt meter to check the voltage or going by the gauge alone? I've had gauges that would do the same thing, only after using a volt meter is where I found the problem.

I think first you need to download the manual and read. If you're experimenting on getting it running, you're going to do more damage. Your fuel system runs from the tank, to the fuel pumps, to the fuel canisters and finally to the injector pump/engine. From the pictures, it looks like you...

After reading Rustystud's post today, he is more than likely correct. Since your truck is used as a plow truck, I'm sure it has some rust under it and that will definitely make it more difficult to remove everything. Good luck with it and please let us know how you did the repair, to help others...

From my personal experience, it is easier to replace the rear end, instead of changing the third member under the truck. It would be the perfect time to put a locker in the axle. lol :)

I think most would agree but when someone post a question or report, I don't think it's necessary to critique their typing abilities. Would you like him to take an entire page because he has 10 paragraphs? I think his description is accurate and easy to understand; if you don't have any valuable...