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Don't forget to un pin the engine and flip the pump timing pin back around BEFORE you rotate the engine.

CUMMINS....geez. Two parts. TDC the engine, use the pin on the rear of the gear housing or the valve overlap method. That is engine timing. For the pump, if removed, remove the cap on the lh lower side of the pump at the governor housing and take the pin out, it is a whitish/yellow pin abouk 3/8...

What do you want, a service manual?

These will start and run well at idle with 28 in restriction thru the filters. They don't like to do anything but idle in a plugged filter condition. Easy things first, LOOK at things. Most of the time it is simple issues that cause no starts in these. And, if the pull in circuit is fubar, with...

There is an electrically operated solenoid mounted to the pump, 3 wires, ground, pull in and hold in. when you crank the engine, that solenoid needs to pull the shut off lever up in order for the rack in the pump to be able to go from the zero delivery to delivery position in the delivery valves.

Is the fsov pulling up all the way?

The grey stuff from Permatex works good

Maybe it was a NASCAR truck

I think the deuce will be more forgiving on the short hop and charging issue, no control box dealio, they are just a normal electrical system with no electronic features. I miss my truck, but don't at the same time.

248 in lb, or 20 ft lb. start in the middle of the pan rail and work your way out. There are 4 places to use a silicone based adhesive, NOT SILICONE, regular silicone will be attacked by the acids in the oil over time and will leak. The front gear housing and the rear seal carrier are part of...

Yes, idling will cause carbon packing, it still does and it is a big issue now. This condition polishes liners, meaning, it removes the cross hatch and causes oil consumption. IIRC, these could have no valve seals, depending on how early the engine is, they did no at first, so oil migration down...

A little heat in the engine before taking off is good, but remember, YOU aren't using these engines as they were designed to be used. In "normal" temps...65-80 degrees, start the pig, let it idle a bit 'till o/p is stable and drive out of your driveway normally, cold weather is different, I...

14L is a totally different fuel system, it has no pressurizing valve like the ones in the Bosch systems. Cummins is proud of that part, $100 + dollars! You guys need to find a Bosch fuel shop and buy from them, they are only 35 bucks there.

Sorry it took a bit, but here are the resistance specs and what wire is what chart....

Here is one with the spec for pull in length of the plunger, http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?159105-M939-Does-not-Idle

I posted all the diagrams in another post, let me see if I can find them.....

For me, not so hard, I have tools for it. For you, you will have a helluva time trying to get the spline off the crank. After that is off, easy as a briggs engine to overhaul. Buying a reman from the likes of NAPA, ReCon, local component remanufacturer is your best option.

:popcorn:

IIRC, there is a plug to install in the head or block that forces coolant flow through the trans cooler in closed stat operation.

First, remove the throttle linkage from the arm on the fuel pump, leave the return springs on the arm, and start it. Let it run to see if the issue is still there. If not, problem solved, you need to adjust the linkage. If it's still there it is time for a pump. The most common cause for this...