Search results

The black should go to ground, which I believe it is going to now. If you look real close at the gauge each post should be labeled.

Looks like the one's Erik's sells for HMMWVs. Their site says don't connect a wire to the SEND side, which yours looks like it has. http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/bavogah12.html I believe you want power going into the rubber connector side instead.

That's not a factory style gauge. The Packard connector would indicate it's for another military vehicle. I'm not sure that it's hooked up correct anyway, typically on other MVs it would have a wire going to the rubber connector. I'd check the voltage at the plug on the truck side first. If...

Don't worry about it, unless they modified some wiring you don't need the blackout lights or rear bumper to have working taillights. Make sure the taillight harness across the back is still hooked up and intact though. Since the bumper is gone it's not unlikely they messed with the wiring back...

Is this the door you need? I already sold the gauge cluster door so no help with that.

I know it's an obvious one but make sure to disconnect the batteries before you begin. The voltmeter can be grounded out pretty easily. Once you have the voltmeter out you can check the wiring to it for voltage.

New glass should be $10 or less at the auto parts store. I'd just break and replace them.

I guess it depends on who is doing the inspection, as well as where the rust is. Technically it shouldn't be an issue unless it's a structural problem or a safety hazard such as a person getting cut on it. I just had the inner fender holes and a small cab corner spot so I took an hour to weld...

The picture uploaded but it's currently set as your profile picture instead of your avatar.

Welded in a couple patches, added a better license plate light, and then got the state inspection done on the plow truck. Now it's ready for winter.:-|

The m101a3 axle will work, but the tires will stick out the sides a bunch. You'd also need the surge brake hitch from an a2 or a3 to be able to use the service brakes.

The numbers i gave you are the 12v bulbs. They're super common, any parts store should have them.

You should swap them out. 24v bulbs will work but they will be dim so not the safest.

67 is the small bulb, 1156 is the big bulb.

Then you'll want to be in the "The Deuce" forum. Here's a link to it: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/forumdisplay.php?20-The-Deuce

That will depend on what truck you're working on.

Hi Chris, if you're only going to be towing it with a civilian truck then the way I'd do it would be to unplug the 12pin pigtail where it meets the harness underneath the cover on the a-frame. From there what I usually do is take a standard flat 4 pigtail and crimp on 3 military connectors and...

There is an m100 trailer which is a little 1/4 ton trailer designed to go behind a jeep, I've never heard of an m100a1. It sounds like you may be talking about the m101a1, which is a 3/4 ton trailer designed to go behind a Dodge m37. This has 5 lug wheels (but definitely a larger than 5 on 4"...

Just checked again and militarysurplusparts in CA has sets for $33 shipped.

You can get a lining set on eBay pretty cheap last I looked. Much cheaper than buying the whole setup.