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Workaround: If you use http://news.google.com and search for "Parowan"you can get the article, but it doesn't give much more detail than the article in the opening post.
If it makes you feel better we 109ers need to remove the entire tank before we can raise up the pump--not enough clearance between the tank and van body...
Mine threaded out OK tho. I wanted to replace the philips screws with hexagon heads but the local ACE didn't carry them, I ended up...
FYI, my problems with this particular starter was traced back to moisture getting into the solenoid. It was sold as NOS and it was exposed to moisture while in storage before it got to me. aua
I was not able to acquire a new solenoid from a surplus dealer, seems the ones out there do not...
Here are some pics!
It was a small but still plenty dysfunctional turnout of members TowerGuy1, BoatCarpenter, CraneMatt, and myself.
The group was plenty productive yesterday. Using incredible yankee ingenuity, and professional skill, the group was able to install TowerGuy's S280 shelter...
The return line sure does send a lot of fuel back to the tank. I learned this when bleeding the secondary filters/lines after removing and overhauling the fuel tank. After I killed the accessory switch, and thus the low-air buzzer, I heard what sounded like the soothing sound of a tricking...
What is the Wreckerman crew up to......... !?!
Regarding the Maine Rally, my current plan is to stop by the office at 0800 Saturday then zip up and back in my Jeep TJ to meet you guys while staying as long as I can. This weekend we're bringing down a lot of computer systems for maintenance...
I've experienced the bounce, what helped mine greatly was equalizing the tire pressure on each dually with a pair of air hoses going to the same regulator set at 50psi. I used the 1/4" NPT tire hoses with the cheap plastic clamp-on chucks from Tractor Supply, its a little tricky getting the...
What day is the breakfast?
I plan to get up there one way or the other. The M109 doesn't have a floor in the back yet but I think that's my only major defect at the moment... <knock on wood>
Great pics, thanks for posting! I had been wondering what this job would look like with a shop crane like the one you used. Thats probably the route I'd have to go if I found myself in the same predicament. Good luck with the reinstall!
I didn't think I'd make the parade. Literally put the newly painted hood on yesterday and my new-er starter was in the shop waiting for parts. I got out the old starter yesterday afternoon, took some of it apart, cleaned it up, sanded down the contacts, etc and she's been cranking over...
Well, I never did find a picture of where the rear 20" star was placed, this is what I finally decided to do. I tried to place it center width wise and between the door handle and the drip edge height wise. I did offset the star a tiny fraction of an inch to keep that lower-left point star...
Maine was pretty easy.
No title needed for anything older then 1995.
No inspection on antique vehicles.
The State BMV guy even noted I paid more sales tax to Tennessee then Maine would charge so i didn't need to pay that.
Funnest part was when the clerk at the Town hall reached way back in...
The two problem starters I've had the privilege of owning had 12 teeth. The first was a 71' L-N model rebuilt at Tead in 88' that came with the truck. The latest was this newer one sold as NOS.
However, I did read of other pinion teeth numbers in this thread...
Re specs, all I can really say is the "MANUFACTURERS PART NO" on my starter matches this manual. Here's the part number and link to specs.
M0017704ME (7704ME)
Edit: added photo of label I'm referring to. And this reference to military use in the link above:
I came across this manual while working through my own starter woes. Thought it might be helpful to others with the same starter. The pictures are better quality then any TM I've seen.
http://www.prestolite.com/literature/tech/stm/3404-771_stm_manual_revB0703.pdf
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