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FYI, the horns operate by being grounded. They receive 24v power at all times, and the switch merely grounds the solenoid (and thus completes the circuit). It's done this way for simplicity on the switch side of the circuit, which mechanically, is the horn button.
This has positive...
What is the lowest overdrive ratio you can find with the 4r100? I realize that the high revving nature of the 6BT somewhat mitigates the 6.72 axles, but for fuel economy, you do want something of a numerically-low OD.
It is out of a L8000 Ford truck. Rotated 90º, and I also welded up one inlet and holesawed it welded a new one on (TIG Silicon bronze).
I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow.
What just got posted here makes you think.
Could you put together an LDT with upgraded internals for more power? Perhaps new rods, a somewhat smaller piston for lower compression ratio, and possibly use stronger head bolts (studs?). You could then configure the engine to take more boost, and...
On the "I'll never finish it" buggy, I got all of the parts from Rockstomper.... cheapish. Check them out, for sure. I used a double ended ram in the front.
Hydraulic assist - single ended ram/cylinder is fine.
Full hydraulic, you want to do a double ended cylinder.
If that's the case, someone should go and tell all of those COE busses and garbagetrucks (many of which are full hydro) to get the heck off the roads.
Full hydro is generally not illegal, contrary to popular misconception...
Gerhardt,
That's lucky - having to re-ream and retaper components is something of a bother. Thanks for the detailed reply (as always!).
Regarding my setup, I FINALLY finished this project tonight! I now have one-finger steering on the front end, all done via a 3" ram (a little overkill, I...
Thanks for the reply, Gerhardt. I think what happened is that this new steering box (outside of the frame rails) positions the balljoint on the pitman so far outboard that the overall angle of the pitman arm changes, bringing the back of the pitman in contact with the shock.
Although there are...
The title says it all. I made a custom draglink last week, and when I installed it last night, the aft edge of the balljoint it brushes up against the shock. GRRR!!!!!
How close is this on a stock deuce? I'm wondering if I can "shim" the hemispheres in the joint to space the steering ball...
I use the cheapo disconnects from Napa, which are made out of lead. I know it's just a matter of time until I don't screw the key down hard enough and I get a short while starting (which wreaks havoc on the interface between the two halves), so I just carry a spare. At $8, they're cheap enough...
Nope, it's really not needed for a forged part. It's good to do this for a cast part made out of gray or nodular iron, but again, steering parts are forged, which is a different process and using different materials.
Especially with such a small part, one pass and everything around the HAZ is...
This is becoming quite the art project. I'm still not 100% done yet, but this is where I currently stand.
BTW, the pitman was welded with .035 wire at 22-23 volts with C02 shielding - this is not my first time modifying forged parts like this - I'm not worried...
Very cool. Just curious: Did you do a hydraulic pump to an orbital, or did you drill and tap a steering box?
BTW, I left town for the 4th, and much to my dismay, the steering elves did not visit me and work out an ideal solution to my steering design conundrum. :P
A guy I know in Lyons, CO (name is Brad Roelens) is selling a rebuilt, converted deuce "sprayer truck". He's had it for quite a few years, and stopped by earlier this spring to tell me it was for sale. It appears to be a standard M35a2 with the standard bed on it, with big tanks in the bed and a...
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