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Hey guys,
I picked up a M1008 from Ft Stewart yesterday. Blt 5/85. Ran, drove, has one belt squiling. Even had a full tank of fuel. :grin:
Flat towed her to the Air Force Base where I work. Figure I will fix her up and test here out on the bases rail system.
It has hyrail gear mounted on...
you should match the CCA and AH of the batteries if you are going to try it. IMHO, I wouldn't mix batteries unless I had to. And even then I wouldn't leave it that way long.
Actually, I was looking into building a kit to sell.
1. Would many of you guys be interested?
2. What would you pay for a system like that? the timer alone is $30... but I could get them cheaper if I bought in bulk (same with the solenoid) I would have to know it was worth while.
Maybe...
Oh, I'm trying to find a better timer, so I can have the drain open ever so often on long trips, for a few seconds, to drain water. Locomotives do that, I stole that idea... :twisted:
Ah, but I'm smarter than the average bear-
The solenoid is Normally Closed. I have a 24v timer circuit, so when I shut off the master switch, it energizes the solenoid for 2 min. then the whole circuit de-energizes.
"So what happens if you bump into the master switch while driving mister...
I put a 24v solinoid valve on my tanks. I'll get photos and post soon. Basically, when the truck is shut down, the valve opens and drains the tanks. I don't have to do anything.
I also have 10-12 of those drain valves that Jinx showed in his photo NOS. Anyone need any, PM me. Asking $6 each.
Sounds like the govenor/unloader on the air compressor
Mine did that for awhile, I sprayed some WD-40 in there, and it would quiet down for a good long time. I finally swapped it out.
Drain the fluids, leave everything open, put a milkhouse heater under the hood for 24hr, fill everthing back up (with oil, not water again) then drive it. Unless you hydroed the engine at high rpm...
Then change the fluids two more times. Did this with a buddies dodge 3500 and he's sill drivig...
Not sure, but we stole this thread, LOL. :-D
My pass door is in great shape. Also, it has flat head hardware on the regulator, panel, and door locks, but the driver side is all phillips head. Oh well!
Gimp, I do need the hinges but would rather replace the whole door, as the bottem is really messed up.
I'll be at Haspin. Just hope it doesn't rain on the way there, missing a driver door an all...:roll:
Gimp,
I was looking for at least a driver door with hinges. I have good glass and lock out of mine. Unless you have a complete door for not much more $. My driver door bottem is rusted all to heck, and one hinge mount is bent/damaged.
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