Search results

I know they are independant, thanks for the response....it is possible that both regulaters are bad, or the batts?

cable runs from rear pass side of transfer, across top of tranfer/trans...along by the shifter linkage....up the fire wall and in to a grommet, then strait into the back of the cluster. It should have a clip hootice holding it to the firewall roughly underneath the brake fluid resivoir.

maybe alt 1 is cooking alt 2 and batt 1 ?

I was curious why the volt meter was riding a little high recently so this mornin' I checked output of the alt while the truck was warming up...on high idle. Driver alt was 15.0 flat...Pass alt was 14.9...for 29.9 total. The meter only lowers out of the red (toward correct voltage mark) when I...

the gas tank should breathe....just a little. If it doesn't than it will not allow fuel in the tank to be pumped out and air to replace it. It works the other way too (positive pressure) but I cant think of why that would be a problem.....unless the fuel pump is just returning most of the fuel...

the rear most belt on the steering pump pump goes crank/water/steering, it is the tough one to adjust, I loosened atleast 4 bolts and atleast 1 was only accesible from underneath....I basically loosened anything that could possibly pivot and used a long bar underneath the pump, worked out good...

#1.....28 splines, dana 44 is 30 and is wrong #2.....Make sure the corporate carrier you get is for 3.73 and down #3......use any 70-80-90 you want, limited slip additive prevents "chatter" of the clutches with-in the case, I have gone without using the additive many times on a diff flush...

Holy ****, thats a good deal, you should become a distributor.... 30 spline for sure, upgrade is 35 spline

I bet thier related, you fix blinkers, you find wire:mrgreen:

mine has a flasher relay and a blinker relay, blinker relay is the one on the bottom, I just bought the heavy duty relay for it last week, works better than before

I once asked the same question....lokk up fuel filter change using the advanced search option, good luck

thanks for the info...keep it coming I wasn't sure if the harness would work, a buddy of mine thought it would be pretty easy to move a pin here and there to make it work....he has done a lot of swaps in the chevy's and has a 1009 with a 350, he changed the harness in it but uses a carb, not tbi...

clunk could have been u-joints, or you could check for pinion slop in and out, easy check next time you go to look at the truck. 45 was tops for my 1008 when I got it, with 33" tires I put on 50 is pretty easy now. If it requires a jump to start i'd be weery of bad batts or alts, bargaining...

glad you got it fixed, i'm still trying to figure out how an inverted(backwards)nut would cause hub failure....if it was off the spindle and laying there than that makes more sense...:p

i'm going with acmunro on this one2cents

First off I am going to sell the 6.2 Getting a 1987 TBI setup off my buddies 1987 suburban 454(he's keeping engine) Getting a 1992 454 off of TBI van minus that TBI setup..... I will put the TBI from suburban on 1992 block and that will go in to 84' 1008 The wire harness from the suburban is...

I think i've read 200 RPM minimum...2cents

I dont have the facility to do this so it's not possible for me right now. Was it worth it? How long do you have to have good results before it has paid for itself and the profit stays in your pocket. This appears to be a bit of a touchy subject maybe we should break it wide open and talk real...

An autobiographical picture huh2cents2cents sigh

if the D60 carrier has a "lunch box" locker it will switch to the new carrier fine, factory units are not easily switchable. You could get a 4.10 carrier that is factory design(Trac loc) or whatever, if the case is empty you can switch the internal components to the new carrier. I would probably...