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Why not just use a no-till drill? They can plant right through the turf in one pass. Around here it's common practice to Round-up the field and plant through the turf.

That should be doable just like the deuce plates. You'll only need different dimensions.

I think that setup you've got there will work great for light loads such as spraying and such. I still have my doubts how well it will work on heavy drawbar pulls in less than ideal field conditions. What I doubt about is the ability to hook all that power to the ground and if you do the drive...

Yea, I'll give $24 for one. Don't make them like the one in the pic though. Just bend them and leave them square on the ends. That how all I've ever seen was made.

The link won't let me look at the pics without joining the forum. I'm a farmer and can tell you that a military truck used in heavy tillage won't work very well. I'll take a 100hp ag tractor and run circles around a 5-ton truck. They just aren't made or can be converted easily for that type...

I also had one to catch fire. Luckily I was in the truck when it went up. Burnt my hand pretty good trying to disconnect it though. It had the external ground wire. It's not fun when going down the road the cab fills full of smoke and flames start coming from under the dash. I think I'll pass.

I need one also depending on price. I've got a press brake but if you're going to set yours up to do it I'd just as soon get one from you. No need to worry about the holes in mine. I can drill them myself no problem (once you're set up it will take much longer to lay out and drill the holes...

The only shear pins I've seen in hardware stores are for farm equipment and are steel. Steel = not good. If you do a little searching around here you'll see several pics of busted winch housings and PTOs ripped off the side of transmissions. All of these were due to using the wrong shear pin...

The 7812 is rated for 2 amps. I've heard reports that they sometimes overheat on anything over a amp though. I do know from experience that it will power a Autometer pyro fine.

I run three commercial tractor/trailers in my business. I can tell you it's not cheap to run a large commercial vehicle. It's also a mountain of paperwork and extra scrutiny involved. I'm not saying don't do it. Just make sure you know what you're getting into.

Alredneck has posted some very reasonable rates in the past. He's located in the Memphis area. Might want to shoot him a PM and see if he can help you out.

A 5-ton is big. You don't realize how small a deuce is until you park it beside a 5-ton. I searched for some pics of a deuce parked beside a 5-ton but came up empty. I sold my 5-ton or I'd take a pic myself.

After seeing Gringeltaube's research ( http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/7948-winch-shear-pins.html?highlight=winch+shear+pins ), I use brass bolts from the hardware store in mine.

The best thing to get for a 24v vehicle is a non-electric pyro. That way the 24v won't matter. That being said, I do have an electric 12v Autometer pyro in mine. Only used it because that's what I had. Here's a link to how I ran a 12v pyro on 24v-...

I'm not sure how much it will help turning up the fuel on a non-turbo. You may just be making more smoke since you don't have a turbo to provide boost.

You got it. [thumbzup] Just make sure you don't let the rod turn. IMO one flat is a little conservative. I don't recall how much I turned mine but it was a pretty good bit (at least a whole turn). I just turned it some, drove it a while, monitored EGT, and went from there. Seems every truck is...

The only down side I see with the one in the link is you're going to need a ladder to get in that top box.

You'll get a pretty good power increase. Almost like a completely different truck. DO NOT do this without a pyro though. You can melt the engine down pretty easy if you don't watch your EGT.

Without looking I don't know if they are the same. NAPA should be able to get you new ones though. Just take your yoke and they should be able to match up a joint for you.

Only time I ever did it was in demo derby cars. It was a dirty cheap way to have pos. Even in the mud of the ring, I'd still break a axle every now and then. Other than that, there's no way I'd do it to a vehicle I wasn't fixing to crash.