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well, if you ever saw the spring pack in a m1008 you'd see that its 3". very thick pack.

my drain plugs are actually drilled in the bottom of the ring around the edge of the diff cover, so you simply unthread the plug from the bottom and the fluid drains out.

richmond gear powertrax, detroit trac-loc, detroit tru-trac. the tru-trac will prolly hold up the best.

I have drain plugs in both my diff covers, they are made of a single piece of 1/4" plate bent and welded inside and out, with a 1/2" thick rign around the edge with coutersunk holes. I got them from...

while i still have the stock pan on my trans, someone welded a drain plug :D into it.

you dont want to suck air into the master, thats hell to bleed out. just keep bleeding till you see only the new colored fluid coming out of the bleeder. and starte at the furthest from the MC, just like always.

at far as shutting off a turbo'd engine, just be sure the EGT's are not high, not sure on the range for a deuce, but 300~400 F should be fine. thats mainly so you dont cook the oil inside the turbo when its shutdown.

its possible that its been replaced with dot3 sometime ago. just be sure to get all the old fluid out, unhook the lines at the wheels and let it gravity bleed. then fill up with dot3 and bleed as normal.

its either yellow or purple, older fluid will be yellow.

yes, as long as you bleed out all the silicone fluid, it will be fine. But be SURE all the old fluid is out. otherwise you will be cleaning GOO out of the master cylinder.

NO NO NO NO NO NO NOT UNLESS YOU COMPLETELY BLEED THE OLD FLUID OUT!!!!!!!!

LOL, i dont have running boards with my lift, its not that bad :) I would recommend getting stainless steel no matter what brand you get, otherwise they rust out. you can get black powdercoated. Westin makes some nice models.

RE: fuel filter change one quick trick, Pull the pink wire from the injector pump on the top of the engine. then crank to get the air out of the filter, this way you dont suck air into the injector pump (much bigger pain to bleed it)

swap the cab for sure

RE: M1008 Tailgate / Endgate Latch Assembly - reinstallation its a PITA, i did it on mine. best way is to attach the rods to the end latches and feed them into the tailgate. then you kinda just move the handle around in the hole until you get the rods to line up with there respective holes...

I could possibly meet somone as far over as ann arbor, but not any further than that.

mike has posted pics of his plow attachment, although if you get a m1008/m1028 a civilian plow setup will bolt right on it. I prefer the western mount that places everything on one bracket then the other mounting options. these trucks can handle 8ft plows no problem.

hook up an air hose and put 2-3psi into the fuel tank. then look at all the fuel lines.

here ya go, found this on a hmmwv site "I use a super power 800 24v/13.8v DC_DC converter very simple install unit has it's own cooling fan I have had very good luck in my HMMWV. up to 80 amp draw constant! web page to powerstream is http://www.powerstream.com To get 12v reliably without...

max was 90psi, iirc I ran that to make up for the sucky roads over here, i didnt like how it would pull on a bump or pot hole if the tires were aired down some.