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Must be on your end. I just went there and it works for me fine.

I have noticed a bunch of post from newer members (or older members with a low post count) lately. Seems since the 100 post rule people are trying to get there fast. The whole deal is just a mess if you ask me. 2cents

What I would do is find a parts deuce with a good bed. Cut the front end off and add a tongue. There's pics around here somewhere of one somebody made.

If you can find an old hyd cylinder and some sort of pump unit you can fab one up pretty easy. You still will have to buy the dies though and they aren't cheap. I have built a few simple dies to bend smaller square tubing before. Square tubing is easier to bend without kinking though.

The 45K winches used on wreckers and on the back of some other trucks are made by Tulsa.

The worst thing water in the system does is freeze in the winter. On a M35 you'll only loose brake boost if it freezes. On civilian trucks will full air brakes, you can loose all your brakes.

It's in the -10 operators manual. Most trucks also have it stenciled near the air tanks and/or on the dash or doors.

Sometimes (ok, most of the time) I do notice it right away but will let it go for a little while because I don't feel like tearing into it. :oops: I be careful not to go into any deep mud or water until I get it fixed though.

If your truck only goes down to 30psi overnight I'd say your truck holds air better than 99% of the other trucks out there. These trucks leak air. The amount of leak you describe is well below the minimum leak down standards in the DOT laws. I hate to say this but you really need to read the TM...

There are some that say you don't need grease in there. We've had this discussion before and I tend to disagree. I'm not for sure which one is right but the TM says put grease in and I also worry about the thrust washer not getting lube. I use NAPA wheel bearing and chassis grease.

:ditto: This is what I'm thinking also. I don't think you'd ever notice one cylinder until it was too late.

Oh, you have a pump that mounts directly to a t-case. I don't know what you have then. I've never seen a direct mount pump on a MV. Now the t-case PTO does have a lube pump built in. It's only for lubricating the PTO.

Do you mean PTO instead of "pump"? If so, the PTO drives the power divider which in turn powers the hyd for the crane or the rear winch.

I used the rear also.

For the fan clutch, I'd just get a air clutch off of a newer Cummins engine. All modern Cummins have air clutches and I'm not 100% sure but I think it would be a direct bolt on. Should be able to find one in a truck salvage yard for $100 or less. An exhaust brake doesn't compare to an engine...

Sounds like a 5-ton wrecker t-case PTO. They don't have an engagement lever and run all the time the truck is in gear.

The ends can be tough to press in and out without damaging the new ones. I find it helps alot to heat the dogbone and freeze the ends before pressing. Also, when you press them in don't press on the center or you'll destroy them (press on the outside edge). I don't think this is that big of a...

1) yes, you can use the accessory drive off the winch PTO (this is how the factory dumps are powered). 2) The accessory drive can be found but they can be pricey. I've seen them for $300 but it goes up from there. 3) Yes, you can install a PS pump off of a 5-ton multifuel. The PS pump will...

Will do Rick. Alot of water pumps use the same bearings and shaft, even between manufacturers. I may go ahead and buy the complete pump because I need the truck up and running fairly quick but I'm still going to try and find the correct rebuild parts if I can.

I've seen the truck and PTO ( I tried to get Ian Ar Xtreme 4X4 to let me have it. The PTO shift linkage was still all hooked up when I saw it. When you're sitting in the seat, look toward the back of the seat on the left. Unless it's been removed for some reason, there should be the shift lever...