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3/8 to the filter 1/4 from the filter to the injection pump. I just use the regulator stuff (low pressure fuel line/hose) but you can use high pressure if you wish.. but really no need. The regular stuff last 10 + years.

broke the shear pin/key way on the shaft. If that is the case you should be able to fix that.

I was a shop manager for 10 years before I went in to the Army and we removed dozens of the rear brake valves on 1 ton trucks and vans over the years with 0 problems. Just when you remove it make sure to bleed all the air and adjust the rear brakes a tad loose. other then that your good to roll.

yeah there 5 tons cummins engines

he is a hack anyway.. who cares :twisted:

Time to get a Repair manual also. Autozone has them for 19 bucks or so. Get one for a 80's Chevrolet Truck & Blazer.

with one non locking hub you will NOT have front wheel drive power... its a open diff and all the power will go to the unlocked side of the axle. Like stated above.. hub time. There a snap to install should only take 10 min a side.

well the front battery should be 12 range and the rear battery should read 24 range. sounds like you have a bad alternator or a wire not hooked up/bad conection. First check all battery cables and battery posts to make sure there clean and on correct, then check all alternator conections. Do you...

smokes... I hope you have not owned a deuce for long.. other wise I bet there full of water by now. Go under the truck and you will see two air tanks... unscrew the bleeder valve and GET OUT! Ha really it should just trickel out if you have no pressure in the tanks.. if you do just open them...

yes this is in the wrong location but.. I am also in need of a hard top or soft top kit. I would rather not build one or spend 1/4 of the price I paid for the truck on a top. Love Westy

are you locked out of the door or to start it? If its just to start replace the lock cylinder.. there like 12 bucks and you can rent the tool to do it fr free at autozone or orileys.... I found it checper in the long run to replace the door locks and the ingnition cylinder.

you have to get the front wheels off the ground! it will take some time to bleed all the air out.. let it sit for a hour sense last driving and get the wheels off the ground. Start the truck top off the fluid and go lock to lock 3 times, check the fluid. If foam let it sit till the foam is gone...

looks like the Zombie detector.

thats Engine oil there dude. Trans will be 80W90 MT1 rating.

well that makes sense, did not know all used 3" in the front.

in the rear yes, the fronts are wider also then the civy units. 3" in the front and 2.5" in the rear. the lift kits for the civy will fit the military with new leaf spring hanger bolts.

I got mine from Oriley for 100 bucks or so... life time warranty.

dude thats your ballancer. Time to get a new one and a new hold down bolt. Make sure the bolt did not brake off in the crankshaft. and no that is not the end of the crank shat.... the ballancer goes over the end of the shaft. Time to READ THE TM'S OR GET A REPIR...

you can run veggie oil if it is heated or warm out side. The cucv injectors do not like lots of WMO or ATF any of that junk. You are able to mix to a piont but I would not go over 25% and make sure to filter the snot out of it, or it will destroy the injectors and the injection pump in a flash...

sad thig was.... I had all my stuff in the bed of my truck.. the rest was the wifes.