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yeah there just dust/dirt covers.. they seal nothing!

there just caps.... nothing to worry about. there not used to seal anything

Im not even going to say anything else.. you try leaving them hooked up and see what happens.

NO you can not charge both batteries at the same time if there hooked up in series (like ready to start the truck) You MUST unhook them and only charge then positive to positive and negative to negative

look on you tube.. there is a hot rod with that engine in it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJOZ3IFuOOI&feature=PlayList&p=8C642BFB818DF918&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=46

propane does not work that well for me. I have tried it a couple of times. I have not used a system like the ether shot.. I just stuck the hose in the intake and turned it on. Tom at Alfa says he has good luck starting the 6.2 that way... I would stick with the ether.

dog is correct.. it will charge the front battery but you still will not be able to start the truck. you do need 24V and the rear battery will not charge off the front in any way. Been there done that here on post with our company truck. you need to charge both batteries, Disconnect the cables...

you got some wires mixed up there guy..... time to re look at what you did and make sure all the wires are correct. Also you do know that the passenger alternator HAS TO HAVE A ISOLATED GROUND. you cant use the auto parts alternator.

ebay good spot for them if no one has one.

I have seen the kit and its not just a "air switch". The gears in the t case are change also to match the rear out put/drive. The 5 ton T case is a Overriding type. meaning the rears have to slip a little so the front can start to drive. If you lock in 6x6 (only way to do it in 5 ton with out...

yeah if it was on the 24 volt its TOAST! not like that little POS does much of anything.. its a wast of time. I never even use mine. You MUST have 4 batteries in there or its going to smoke them. I only have two 6TL's in mine but its only used in the summer. And hard starting will cook the...

Clint there the same. you might have to cut a hole for the steering shaft but most cabs are punched for both. The will bolt in and work. Just very small things that may or may not have to be done.

yes there the same done that been there

he does not have any running trucks.. .. HA

I tell ya I have a hard enough time removing the lid of a 6.2 can. THERE HEAVY! I bet that lid is 700+ pounds alone.

There is a manual fuel cut off on the pump. Its a leaver just swing it to the rear of the engine and it will cut the fuel. but the electric cut off should work, lets fuel flow when power added and cuts out when no power.. just like a CUCV. As for supplying the fuel.. just drop the feed line an...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/44302-6-2l-winter-starting-issues-strategies.html http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/41213-cold-start.html http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/28996-cold-start-m1009.html http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/15988-need-some-advice-hard-starting-cucv.html...

try saturnsurplus.. they have a TON of BO lights

well thats it folks.. there is your answer. Mods close the post.

do a search.. many many posts on this... it was just posted a couple of weeks ago. You need different injection pump switch, oil pan and pick up, different glow plugs, water pump and pullys.