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I believe that the info you seek can be found here - https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?173084-Idaho-title-change!!!!!

You mean like this?

Fitment issues - HEMTT rims are required on the front axle on 939series trucks to prevent rubbing at full turn. It's possible(but not easy) to articulate the suspension enough to contact the bed. Obviously not an issue on the truck tractors.

M925 on 16.00s

M818 on 16.00s

It's almost certainly the PCB going bad. It can be bypassed. Or flip the switch back and forth in rapid succession and it'll likely come on. Simp was selling rebuilt PCBs.

Sorry, but I only have my phone with me and their website doesn't have full functionality using a phone. It'll be weeks to months before I'm back in front of a PC. The DMV has these little kiosks in their offices that will also be able to do it. (Calling is almost always a waste of time...

I've done it on the website. It's been about a year so I don't remember the details. But it's possible.

My suspicion is the pump activated properly, but there was no open path between the pump and the fuel so the pump was sucking against a closed system. For the aux side to work it's going to need both the supply and return ports open. To test the pump, you could re-route your primary fuel hoses...

Forgive me for asking the obvious, but do you have the valve turned towards the aux fuel pump? As an aside, where'd you get the fittings to make your connectors to the aux side of things?

You have it connected to an external fuel supply?

Complete kits new in the box were running $750-$1200 last time I was contemplating one.

I have one and like it a lot. Mine is slightly different than the one pictured. Hanco generator, DHS HVAC, and Perkins turbodiesel. "Applied companies" I believe is the name on mine. Very smooth and quiet. I use it for primary power on offgrid property.

On towbars? If so, I would anticipate a high probability of failure of the pintle hitch attachment under emergency braking conditions...

I interpret what he's saying as even with 37's the rpms are high at 60mph. 4.56's and 37's should be a good combination. 4.56's and 35's may result in too high of rpms st hwy speed, depending on your tolerance for rpm and just how much you drive interstate. Personally I'd go with the 37's if...

If you want a sustained 60mph then you want a 4spd transmission. Neither the 6.2 nor the 6.5 will be happy at 60 for long with the 3spd behind it. Personally I don't see a huge difference between the 6.2 and the 6.5. GEP engines are to be preferred, but this is well down the list of...

I traded a decent M35A2 with winch, Whistler, air shift transfer case.... for a decent M998 that the guy couldn't get titled. Including some transport on my end. And I'd happily do it again.

6.2 and 3spd - 14mpg KS to the FL/GA line. 12mpg GA to KS towing a welder on a little trailer.

Or weak batteries may be your only problem. The ABS is very voltage sensitive. Just because it spins that 14 liter engine doesn't mean its enough to appease the ABS light....

And where were you welding?