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TMI...:roll: I use a screwdriver, hold solid contact with the tip to whatever I want to listen(inside of) and put the plastic handle in my ear.

Found this on a civilian wiring diagram for a 1984 truck.

I guess, if everything works with it unplugged, them leave it alone!

Yup, but for the other, the colors and number of wires, does not match the schematic or my truck.

I found the single wire(brn/white) wire. It goes on the parking brake switch. It's way up above and behind the silver round relay in the top left corner of the fuse panel(on the P brake mechanism) Still not seeing the other 2 wire connector.

They are loudest when the fast idle and timing advance is activated(cold start).

I just looked at my truck, and I can't find either of the wire/plugs in your pics! Are you referring to a one wire(brown) connector and the 2 wire connector, and thinking they go together? Kinda confused. The schematics are in the back of the -20 and -34 TMs.

Front battery, drivers side alt , Runs all stock 12v circuits Rear battery, passenger side alt, used in series with front battery when starting and supplies the glow plugs(stock)

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/989424-post35.html

After a run-on failure, yes quite possibly.

Looks great!

I don't think the warranty was transferable to the private owner/user.

You should be able to use 2 batteries, instead of 4, in the truck.

Replace the rubber hoses, rebuild the tank selector valve (o-rings), replace the filter seal and make sure the top bolt is sealed(square washer). Also, the pickup tube in the tank is prone to rusting near the top of the tank. If all that don't help, your IP may need to be resealed.

Still can have the same issue. The 12v+ wire is attached to the rear battery negative cable. It would need to be discconected to stop the issue I described. once again, do the DH mod and you'll be fine.

Is there power on the pink wire with the key on? Becareful diagnosing this issue, if you leave the key on too long, you may burn out your glow plugs. I would disconnect them at the relay while troubleshooting this issue, until your ready to crank the engine over.

Great, glad you found that info and resolved the issue. A squirt of lube in the airline to the valve, may help also. As a habit, I shift into first and back to reverse a few times, everytime I drive a 5 ton, after the air builds up, and I listen for the right sound.

Trust me, it has happened before and been posted here on SS. It can and will happen. If the starter motor is going and the front battery ground is removed, it can ground through the small 12+ wire and continue to crank with 12v.

Same boom. Why not do what I suggested? lift one end at a time?

During a starter run-on, you do not want to disconnect the front battery neg cable. If you do, it will continue to crank with 12v from the rear battery. The 12+ wire will back feed to ground through the circuits and mess up plenty of stuff(besides the normal run-on issues). Simply change your...