Recent content by jkcondrey

Have you drained the rear diff by chance and checked the fluid? If your sure the transfer case is in high, and it doesn’t look like alignment is bad, you could have issue in the differential. Fluid can tell you a lot real quick.

Do you have fuel coming up? While cranking open the fuel filter drain located on the driver fender well. It should flow pretty good with a working pump. Follow the fuel hose leaving the bottom of the filter to its terminus. Should have a little elbow valve on it.

Put some new kicks on today. Mtr’s dated this decade!!

Sounds like the solenoid is sticking on the starter.

I have an 1152 parts truck with many items available on it. Can’t guarantee I can get everything off in time but I can do so before and after Denton. I do have a booster for an REV truck I got by mistake. NOS, orange studs on master cylinder side. 200$ obo. 998 front drive shaft, NoS, but front...

I wouldn’t know it had a defect from looking at it. For all I know the loss of brakes could’ve been that part of the booster. But sounds like Steve and Action pointed the right direction. Thanks all

Hmm. I hadn’t heard that. I’ll double check that. I do have a spare parts truck but the booster would be bad for sure, sat out in weather for who knows how long.

I got around to swapping the hydro booster. Got a nos part. The pushrod on the master cylinder side is quite long, compared to the old unit over an inch more extension outward. I went ahead and installed and the brakes are locked up. Booster #’s said to match on rosy, but either it’s wrong part...

You can do all kinds of stuff with old bicycle tubes. Chain covers, shifter rubber wipes, life preservers lol.

Just for giggles, look inside your frame rails when you get a chance.

Had the hydro-booster go out on the 1152. When replacing, TM -2 , 7-14, makes no mention of bleeding the unit. Is there a process someplace I am missing or it tied directly to the power steering bleed procedure? Thanks

I will also add, when it came time to inspect, I just made sure it had all the lights a normal car had, horn worked and signals. A tag light can be done for under $20 (if not lower) off amazon and tapping into wiring loom. Backup lights pretty cheap too. Several instructionals on here about that.

As usual, it all depended on who you had to deal with to get them done. Gear-report(Jeff) and I among others spent plenty of time dealing with the dmv over their reasoning for how they were to be dealt with. The long story short was it was originally setup to require a dealer to sell you the...

Yes. That is its function basically. The sensor cup on the frame catches air like a cup upside down pushed into a pool. That air provides the pressure to repel the water intrusion.

If you want full function of the fording kit, you need the correct cdr, the valve for the dash and the sensor cup for the front frame mount. All the kit does is put air pressure into various parts of the system to build enough pressure to help prevent water from getting into them.