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Hey everybody. I've been searching through this forum and I haven't seen anything on this issue in at least 3 years. I've got a "fully-warranted and EPA-registered biodiesel – meeting national ASTM quality specification D-6751" producer in my county. I bought $30.00 of B20 from them yesterday...

I just put $30.00 of B20 in my M1009 yesterday; so far so good. The B20 was a minimum of $.20 cheaper that regular diesel. The B100 is $.40 cheaper. I'd like to run B100 for the cost savings and the whole "saving the planet while smelling like french fries" thing.

Dropped the striker bolt just a little; removed the passenger door to reinstall the bushing the right way on the lower hinge (to err is human) and to tap the loose hinge back in. Now retraining myself and the rest of the family to NOT slam the doors like their life depended on it.

Will do! If we ever get a good rain over here again, that is.

That's the way it was when I bought it. It when from the military, to a sheriff's department (white and black color scheme), to a private individual ("mag" wheels and euro fog lamps). I don't know who put the badges on it. I wouldn't have changed it from original to white, but I'm not changing...

Got my new tires! 33x12.50x15 Goodyear Wrangler DuraTracs. No lift.

I replaced the bushings and hinges pins on both doors of my '85 M1009 this weekend. Really makes a difference. FYI - the hinge pins had a flange on the bottom, so I had to cut through them with a sawall. If they aren't case-harded steel, they are pretty darn close.

I got a sawall from my friend, and just a few hours and several blades later, I've replaced all four door hinges (and bushings) in both doors.

Help! I've got the driver door off my '85 M1009 (unbolted door from hinges), so that I could get to the hinge pin more easily to replace the bushings. But it looks like the pin has some sort of flange on the bottom? How do I get the pin out?

I discovered that there can be a big difference in price among the different sizes of the same tire. Well, big to me anyway. For example, by staying with my current size instead of switching to a comparable metric, I saved over $125.00 on the set (plus the cost of new rims).

What size tire?

Took some double-sided adhesive picture hanging "tape" and attached a press on/off light to the inside of cab roof. Crude, but effective.

Ok, back to the spacer idea. My local 4x4 tire shop guy said he didn't like spacers; especially if you off-road (which I want to do). A Firestone tire shop guy said they won't even work on vehicles with spacers! Who has spacers? What's been your experience? Pros and cons. The lines are...

:doh: I didn't think of that. You know, maybe it doesn't look that bad after all.

Yes.

Oh, I forgot to mention that I don't want to do a lot of work. I want a quick, inexpensive, easy, but quality fix. Is that too much to ask? rofl

Is there a way to have the outside edges of the front and back tires line up without using spacers? I've had two different tire shop guys tell me just exactly how they feel about spacers, and it wasn't pretty. I'm currently running 33x12.50x15s, and the rear tires are flush with the top of the...

I pulled the trigger on the DuraTracs. My nearby Discount Tire will match the TireRack.com online price of $151.00, so my OTD price is now $744.48. And that is before the $70.00 in rebates ($674.40 final). He should have them by Monday and I should be riding on new skins sometime next week...

Well, I'm leaning real hard toward the Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac, size 33x12.50x15 now. They are $177.00 a piece ($27.00 cheaper than the KM2s) at my nearest Discount Tire. $830.38 OTD (or less if DT matches TireRack's $151.00 online price) and then there's $70.00 in rebates.

I just bought my M1009 from my 16 yo son (actually the bill of sale from January was in my name anyway) on Sunday. On Monday I installed the seatcovers correctly, ditched the tree-shaped air fresher, the aftermarket 4x4 shifter, the John Deere tag, and scraped off the matching grenade decals...