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So you're saying basically to brute force it out and hope it doesn't break off? Wouldn't it be safer to remove the injector first and cover the hole so junk doesn't end up in the cylinder? I've never removed an injector before. Is there any issue with getting the injector out of the way...

I've searched a lot for ideas. I'm curious what input you guys have for getting out swollen glow plugs. I have just one that is stuck. It threads all the way but won't pull out. I haven't pulled real hard because I can't afford for the truck to be down right now. I found this tool...

What's up here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986-Military-Spec-Hummer-6-2-Liter-Diesel-Slant_W0QQitemZ330198321701QQihZ014QQcategoryZ5360QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem seems too cheap.

Re: RE: Wanted: T-case and trans braces for M1008 Strange. Mine appear to be removed, since one of the bolts is present on the trans end, and I have the attach points at the motor mounts. Or do you just mean the T-case part?

Need the brace rods from T-case to trans and trans to motor. Can't find anything locally.

RE: Re: RE: Electrical failure I have all the schematics, but the labels are far from obvious. There are separate diagrams for headlights and blackout lights. Looking at the blackout light schematic, I can't tell where battery voltage comes from in the first place, much less how the blackout...

RE: Re: RE: Electrical failure But the headlights aren't on the same fuse as the horn, taillights, backup lights, blinkers and everything else that was down. Anyway, I got lucky and found the problem to be a corroded connection at the firewall. 12V wasn't making it past a little junction box...

Re: RE: Electrical failure Which one?

Looking through the manual, it sounds like my blackout lights are enabled, even though the switch is in the service light position. Any ideas how to solve this? The schematics don't make it at all obvious how the blackout light switches interact with everything else.

Suddenly today my CUCV has basically no lights: no headlights, no tail lights, no break lights, no little dome light thingy, and no horn. It starts and runs fine. The fuses all look good by eye, but I haven't checked them electrically yet. Any ideas where I should start looking?

The support is the bar that goes between the engine and trans on each side? If so, I don't have one on either side, though there's a bolt on the other side at least. I wonder where I could source some besides the junk yard.

I was changing my oil, and it looked to me like a few bolts may be missing around the bellhousing area. Maybe someone can confirm? The picture attachment may be hard to interpret, but it's the passenger side and I circled where there are open bolt holes. Is it a big deal? If so, anyone know...

I heard on the news that the military is replacing the hummers in Iraq with something more highly armored. Is this right? If so, I wonder if we'll get a flood of surplus hummers hitting the market soon?

Re: RE: Re: RE: Alternator size? Yeah, I found that after I wrote the message. I wasn't able to find them actually for sale anywhere though, except one on Ebay for almost $1000. This place has them too, with bracket kits for a 6.2 no less: http://www.vehiclepower.com/index.html No prices...

Re: RE: Alternator size? What is a genset? I'm a member at ck5 too. Actually, I recently posted the same question there. but didn't get much in the way of leads.

Re: RE: Alternator size? Maybe. Space is at a premium in my garage though, so I was hoping to avoid having another thing sitting around. Plus, it might go years between uses, which just seems bad. If I could make the inverter thing work, it would take no space, plus be handy to have when I'm...

How many amps are the CUCV alternators rated for? I was looking at a big inverter to make AC power, but not sure if the alternator could keep up. Anyone every set up their CUCV to make multi kW of AC power? I'm thinking about emergency power during a blackout like we just had, to run the well...

I have 35" tires on my CUCV. They are the 10" wide radial swampers, and they took fender trimming to fit. I haven't beaten them up off road yet, so it's possible the front might rub. I'd have serious doubts about going any larger without a lift.

I never ended up getting paper due to the cost. If you have the electronic manuals, a copy shop should be able to do it for you from the PDF's. If you don't have the electronic manuals, I understand they are available on this site.

I have them electronically, and I asked Kinkos how much it would cost to make some spiral bound prints. I don't remember how much, but it was enough to make me change my mind, probably ~$100 for the service manual alone.