Search results

If you have good fuel flow to filter it's probably not your lift pump,Crack the injectors to see if you have fuel from ip.Vacuum lines have nothing to to with how these run,they only supply vacuum to trans.

Installed with plastic towards motor, they functioned well for a week, then failed. I would think the temperature sensor part would be towards motor. Maybe I'm wrong. Only used pyrometer to get rough idea. Advice welcome.

My problem seems to belt related. After replacing belt,light much dimmer and after tightening tonight no light at all. Thanks for the input guys.

I have replaced 3 thermostats in 5 weeks, they work fine for about a week, engine warms to 195 opens and cools then warms back up,after about a week they open up at 160 degrees, two were from advanced auto with black plastic hockey puck the other was all brass from autozone.All worked well...

The volt readings I gave were for batts. When motor not running,when running both alts are in the 14.5 range.Sorry I should have been more specific.

I look forward to some expert advice on this post,I have never seen Gen 1 and Gen 2 grounded together and then grounded to block.My experience is limited to 4 local 1009s (2 of them mine) And only about 80k miles.

This is my only vehicle right now so I tend to be a bit paranoid,thanks guys.

My fuel press.gauge is safely mounted under the hood and reads accurate when cranking motor.7 lbs in 5 seconds.Just a thought.No offense intended.

My Gen2 light comes on after 1009 warms up,its very dim and not noticeable if it's light out you can't even see it,voltmeter reads normal.alt. output reads normal batts.both have 12.9-13v reading.Will it last a few weeks til I can afford a rebuild?I'm 24v starter only.

I have a fraction of your experience with cucvs,I can't speculate any further without showing my ignorance.I know you like them stock but an in line fuel press.gauge might narrow things down.Once running all we need is fuel and compression.

After viewing more of your picts.no longer jealous of your snow.Time for a deuce.

Once these are running it doesn't take much for them to stay running,still have 12v to inj.pump? On a side note I'm kinda jealous of all your snow,My 86 isn't ready for that yet but still would be kinda fun.Weak lift pump?

I prefer the tank style block heater,easier and cleaner to install and if installed correctly more efficient.Do an oil psi gauge and let it heat up,if it still carries 10-20 psi at idle your bearings probably still good.

You guys out east are getting hammered with snow,40 inches in some areas in WV.Stay safe out there.Look forward to some deep snow cucv picts.

Today the 86 1009 got new belts and fixed minor coolant leak.Also checked voltage on batts.rear at 13v,front 12.9v.Batteries carry more volts since solargizer install.They used to hold at 12.6-12.8 V.

Get either the gm brand or a Phillips temro zerostart brand for the freeze plug style,if you go tank style get a kim hotstart unit,it's totally rebuildable.I used a kim hotstart tps-151GT10-000,works awesome.Earlier this week it was 1-2 degrees ambient temp.-10-15 with wind chill and my GP...

It's gonna be 15 above tonight and I'm still going to plug my 1009 in,it loves.It normally starts well down to 5 degrees but is much happier with heater plugged in.

Last night was first night I was able to park close enough to a power outlet,I'm working out of town and staying in a motel.I plugged the tanks style Kim hots tart heater in at 8pm and started it at 530am.It started and sounded so much quiter,even better than it started in July.It was 2 above...

Drove it this am in 2 degree weather,when I got to shop left front bulb not working.So now I have my answer.Strange how it would go bad slowly.Then I drove to east side to work for a few hrs.Drove back to my motel and bulb started working again,at least now I know where to start.Thanks for the...