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Well, any time you deviate from the stock configuration, it lowers the value for some people. Others see value in mods - it's all about what you want out of the vehicle. If you want to buy a daily driver, stay far away from this one. If you're looking for an offroad mud/snow rig, this could...

The way I see it, you could spend $2K on a 1009/1008 through GL, that leaves $5K to spend on repair/restoration, if that's your thing. Heck, I only paid $3K for my 1009 through eBay, and it's basically rust-free. Paint's faded, needs new rubber all the way around, steering needs work next. I...

Not as bad as I thought it would be - the wing window comes out as one assembly after removing one screw at the top and one bolt on the side.

Just got new glass for my driver's side door, and I'm stumped as to how it goes in. There doesn't seem to be a good angle to slide it in. Do I have to remove the wing window? Or am I missing something?

Thanks guys, Looking at the other side, I'm thinking it was all one piece at some point, but cracked into two. I'm trying to find some 3M Silicone spray - it's apparently quite useful for installing seals, and it helps preserve the rubber.

I'm replacing the glass in the drivers door of my M1009, and once I saw how bad the rubber window seal was, I decided to get that out too. Right now I'm looking at my LMC Truck catalog, and they list two different kinds of door glass run - a one-piece that goes from the bottom of the rear all...

Thanks all, based on your comments and a few experiences I've read, I'm going to keep these doors - they aren't showing any rust, just dents. If I can't get them straight enough (not interested in perfect), I'll make a trip to the junkyards.

Well, now both the driver's door and passenger side are dented pretty well, with the paint chipping off in places. I think I've settled on getting new door shells from LMC Truck, instead of trying to pound/pull out the dents. At the same time, I'm going to replace the hinges on the driver's...

J2H, I see a couple places where rust has started eating the body panels - factor fixing that into your purchase!

I'd take one as well, especially if it takes a fuel can.

If the current owner has a clear title, you're home free - he might not have plates and registration, but that's a separate issue. I got my M1009 from a seller in Texas who had a title to it, just took that down to the MVD here, they checked the VIN to see that it matched, title transferred. I...

Your GP controller is missing completely? Yikes! The Wellman part number you have for your glow plugs is correct, from the application catalog here: http://www.wellmanautomotive.com/pdf/WAP-Catalog.pdf The click means the solenoid is actuating. There might be a chance the internal workings...

The dribble of fuel makes me think it's the fuel shutoff stuck/not getting power/broken. It shouldn't be gushing out the return lines, but something more than a trickle. k20, do you have a copy of the TMs? The troubleshooting section is pretty easy to follow and will pin down the problem fast.

RE: New to me M1008 - Checklist before fire up? Also, after looking at all the photos, you'll want to put the air cleaner back on the intake. :lol:

RE: New to me M1008 - Checklist before fire up? Once you have a key, it should just be a matter of checking fluid levels, most importantly the oil and coolant, and having fully charged batteries. Take a good look in the engine compartment for any missing or disconnected wires. If the glow...

I agree with Ace - dig in to almost any CUCV and you'll find it's a hodgepodge of parts from different years, either due to replacement while in service, or just from the assembly plant using up old stock.

Comes back as a 1986 from the Flint factory. Nice looking truck, good luck on the bidding. From what I read GL can go from slight PITA up to unholy terrors to deal with.

RE: Re: RE: release Thanks all! I finally got it open with a long flat screwdriver. From the looks of it, the cable is stretched so much the release doesn't get pulled when I yank on the handle. I think I can crimp/glue/solder something on the cable that will hit the lever properly.

Well, for the past few weeks, I've had an intermittent problem with one of the alternator belts. Periodically when throttling up from idle, something won't catch right, I'll hear a squeal as the belt slips, the GEN2 light will flicker a bit. Not something I was in a terrible hurry to fix...

Hmmm, if GMpartsdirect has hidden fees, I may give LMC a try, or the other one that's up there. I've had horrible luck with anything from JCWhitney fitting properly.