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Some more recent pix: 1. The turbo manifold, all dressed for dinner. IDE Heatwrap protects the glow plug wires and injector return lines. Thermocouple for the pyrometer sticking out to the right. 2&3. One of the rebuilt heads mounted. Man this job would suck bigtime if I hadn't removed the hood...

I just installed the DSG stud girdle, cost $170 to my door. Check out post #15, 4th pic. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?74264-m1009-turbo-lift-buildup-2.html

I'll second that, use a 1/8" cutoff wheel on a 4" hand grinder, preferably an old wheel that's small. Cut the rear of the front wheel wells to within 1/4" of the inner fender, then squirt some seam sealer or other caulk inside the angle and bend the remaining 1/4" over with a hammer.

So here's some recent updates: 1. The oil return pipe from the '93 K3500TD turbo donor truck hits the injector lines. Also it runs between the exhaust manifold and the block, heating up the oil even more. I'll make a new one, there are kits on FleaBay for $50. 2. While I'm taking the engine...

I'm installing a turbo setup from a '93 K3500 on my M1009, and the parts box has these in it -- I think they are heat shields for the glow plug wires, but I can't figure out what they bolt to. And why do I have only 2? Anybody seen these?

Just replaced the rear main seal in my M1009 and of course I read both the TM-34 and the CUCV FAQ article on this site beforehand. The FAQ article does NOT specify the same procedure as the TM (loosening all the main bearing caps and letting the crankshaft drop), and also states that 4 hands are...

So the project is moving slowly, but here's the latest pix. The lift/axle swap is done; I'm using 2" rough-country add-a-leaves and 1" zero-rate blocks all around. The axles are from a 76 3/4ton (dana 44 front, gm 14-bolt rear with 4.10 gears). Front axle has been moved forward 1.5". The detail...

Question for y'all: Did the Banks kit come with a different CDR valve? Or did you keep the stock CDR? Seems like the CDR would have to be plumbed into the intake before the turbo (wouldn't work in stock location because crankcase pressure will be fighting against boost pressure?)

Will the stock n/a CDR valve work on a turbo-ed 6.2, if I make a new bracket and reroute the plumbing? Or is the opening/closing pressure different?

I'm looking at a pair of these on Flea-BaY:NEW GM/CHEVY 6.5 DIESEL(90°) ANGLE CYLINDER HEAD Item #160362649899 They're going for $650/pair, 2yr warranty, free shipping and no core charge. Might be cheaper than getting mine rebuilt, and it says they interchange with the 6.2 motor, but I wonder...

I've been running a Walbro FRB-22 pump for a couple years. It was a little pricey at $120, but has a built-in prefilter, pumps only on demand, and can handle WVO and B100. There's a cheaper version called the FRB-5. It's worked well for me, but you have to watch when you clean the prefilter that...

One of my cylinder heads is cracked, but I have a junk 6.2 out of an '88 3/4ton suburban. Are the C-code heads the same as the cracked J-code ones?

Yes I too am curious about how you solved the issue of the pass. exhaust manifold hitting the injectors and frame.

The built-in prefilter on my Walbro FRB-22 pump is rated at 300mic, so the 140mic one from NAPA should be good. Problem with mine is the surface area is too small, would need to be cleaned less if it was bigger

Just removed my bumper and grill guard today. Didn't even try wrenching on those rusty bolts, just cut the heads off from the outside using a 4.5" grinder with a 1/4" thick wheel. Took about 15min. and off she falls!

Got my new radiator from Rock Auto, can't recall the part number but get the one with the maximum number of plates in the tranny cooler and engine oil cooler. It was about $250 with shipping

Choll, yes you could add a third battery wired to the radio terminals in the back, but it would be the equivalent of just adding another battery in parallel with the main batteries, meaning the driver side alternator still would not work. Better would be to run a third battery with a shared...

1. You would have to change the carriers, and setting up a new carrier, ring and pinion is a pretty sophisticated (=expensive) job 2. You could swap in a set of civillian 3/4 ton axles, which came with 4.10 gears, but you'd have to relocate the rear spring perches on the rear axle 3. Do you...

Timarr, the Zero-Rate blocks are from Off Road Design. I'll be using the front one to move the axle 1.5" forward in the chassis. Rear axle is installed with no offset. The add-a-leafs are Rough Country, about $60 each. Dstang97, yep I've got an IP from a '93 hummer (not the same vehicle that...

Sgt LongT, he's talking about using 2 EXHAUST gaskets on the turbo side, to shim the exhaust manifold away from the cylinder head. Not two head gaskets on the same side