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I ran 4/0 cable from the bed to the firewall. Real fine wire, not stiff. Worms like a charm. If I ever get a front bumper built as I want it, the batts will go in that.
I would rather find mounts that raise the engine an inch or two. Better exhaust clearance for a turbo. 3 inches body lift and 2 for the engine would be a huge help. I had to notch my frame, grind on a manifold, and alter a frame brace.
I put my fuel opening on by cutting a hole and then putting the "new" door over it. By rounding the new door panels edges and using large self tapping bolts, it looks sharp. So that you know, I tried a short bed tank first, no go. I used drivers side brackets, and had drill three of the four...
I've torn up two np208s, but I've never grenades one. One came apart at 70 on a dry highway, my bad. One was just to much torque in a.hole.
I'm going to an np205 next.
I have my CUCV wired all 12v. I also have two later style alts. I'd like to connect the gen lights to them. I used to know this, but have forgotten how to do it. I don't mind using separate bulb holders with their own wires.
I'd like to know more about what's out there as far as kits to convert one to a reverse shift valve body with engine braking and converter lockup.
Any thoughts or knowledge on using this on a way overbuilt 700R4 for towing, please chime in.
Mistakenly posted in the CUCV section.
Anyone familiar with fitting an intercooler to a CUCV with the 6.5l? I moved the batteries to the bed, so there is a little play room.
I'm running a navistar block with an hx40w2 and water meth injection, trans, oil, and engine cooling upgrades, and an...
Run the heaviest cooler you can find. Run it first, and then into the radiator. Synthetic fluid and a deep aluminum finned pan with a temp gauge. The money spent on a new converter is well spent. The T400 flex plate will not work. An NP205 T-case is good money well spent if it will see any...
Trying to bleed fuel to the injectors. Had fuel to the filters (Stanadyne). Have an electric pump. Can't get past the injection pump. I wont be able to try again until late next week, as I am off to work.
Think I figured it out. Pink is hot w/ the key on, opens the fuel shut-off valve. The greens go to the side of the pump (timing advance), and the High Idle switch. Green feeds from the sensor down by #8 cylinder and that is fed by a Pink / black wire that is hot w/ the key on.
(Wish I could...
Found it, Thanks!
The engine is from a HMM-V
Cross-over switch, Glow plug switch by the #8 cyl, and cold advance in the right rear block-off plate on the head, all are normally closed, and open the circuits (cut off power through them) at around 120 degrees F.