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Usually a level refers to the claimed horsepower it will handle. Each builder uses different parts or suppliers etc.

Look up teds transmission on the internet.

People who have done the Cummins swap seem to like them. Keep it simple, manual injection, no engine computer, in my opinion.

I have destroyed 2 level three built 700's and two np208s. They just do not take any heavy use. I am going to try a level 3 built 4l80 from a place on the net called Jake's. A brazed fin converter and a twin sticked NP205 to allow low range towing if needed. I am also upgrading to 1410 rear...

You can take a jug of fuel and put the pump inlet direct to that and see if it works. A cheap vacuum/fuelpressure tester would not hurt to have. Just a gauge and rubber hose really. They give a good indication of fuel pump health.

Rotted lines, bad pump, lots of causes. Check your oil, make sure fuel hasn't caused it to rise.

Anyone know of one that fits and uses the OEM size filters? Not interested in use the oil cooler lines, etc, replies. Just looking for the adapter / sandwich.

Over on the website for 4wd pirates there is a how to on upping the steering pump output. I did it, it works.

On my tractor I used a 2" receiver front and rear for my mile marker hydraulic winch. It was swappable to where ever I needed it for skidding logs or getting out mud holes and bogs. A truck would be the same.

Can you post a how to about the cs130 mod.?

I've seen those, they require a magnet to be glued on.

Put some STA Super Lug 9/16's on it and don't even worry about a lift. Mine are sweet and being the one's with a ridiculous ply rating, will do anything, including 85mph.

Now goes from the purple / black that is from the key, to the starter.

I removed both relays and am using the keyed pink black wires to switch other things now. I had to splice the two brown alt relay wires to keep the gen 2 light working. As I have two cs type alts now, it wouldn't affect the charging. My alts get their excite signal from other keyed sources...

I've got a tach, it reads flywheel teeth. I'm looking for input on getting the signal magnet mounted, or? It reads down to 32 teeth.

Anyone of all the CUCV gurus know of a way to add a magnetic flywheel or similar tooth count sensor? Bought a tach, need a way to count teeth.

So, it just trips and grounds a light? Sounds doable as a retro fit.

I agree on the c tane, I was addressing the lubrication. I use a c tane boost / antigel and 2 stroke. 2 stroke is cheaper than the other. In the summer I don't run antigel or c tane boost. I do run kerosene if it's priced close, and use the c tane boost with diesel if towing.

I am curious as to how the water in fuel system works. Is it a simple set up like a temp light, or is there a module?

Thank you. One less thing in there.