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Haven't posted in a while and this time I actually have a problem that I am at a decision point to figure out. My alternator light 2 has been flashing very dim for about a year and could only see it at night. I never bothered with it since it charges fine. That all changed about a week ago...

I may have another answer for this. I just got 2 kits from asp wholesale to rebuild 2 more 27si alternators...I got the hardware kits with it...they have the front bushing in it. Pop your pulley off and give them a call and see if he has the correct thickness you need. Not sure why I didn't...

I had to go look at one of mine to remember but one of them were like that. I loosened the upper bracket on the intake, then the other bolt on the upper bracket I put a thin washer in between the bracket and block. The lower one I just removed the long bolt and used the same washer on the block...

I bought 3 last year nos from Saturn surplus in halifax pa...they were supposed to close but still selling. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Thanks for finding this!! I had no idea it was a thing. It does make sense for fluiddamper to make one damper then add a spacer for the older engines.

I have seen this before and it typically has air bubbles in the fluid from the initial start and/or it is over filled. Once it sits for a bit the air bubbles should go out and can fill it to the proper level.

You can do this in the opposite direction as well ...it'll tell you if you need to adjust the ip modulator or just swap the lines...start at the trans vacuum and work your way up. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Sure! You'll need a good vacuum gage...-0 to -25 in lbs tops...you'll hook that up to the modulator on the ip...I can't remember exactly on the top of my head which one...there's only 2 lines...if you get the wrong one though you'll see about 20 inlbs..normal is around 18 up to 25...make sure...

Can adjust the vacuum switch on the ip some or get an adjustable vacuum modulator for the trans...get more out of the ip adjustment though...doesn't hurt to have a vacuum gage hooked up to the output of the modulator and set it at 11 lbs. I set mine there and first shift is around 25 30 and 3rd...

You should be fine as long as you had coolant in it...I flushed mine using that, opened it some with a funnel on the radiator to keep it full...works good.

Ok I was wondering how you were turning a diesel engine by hand on the flywheel!! They are tight to do that once they hit compression. I've lost a bunch of knuckle skin on flywheels in the past. Did you pull a main cap to see if there is any scoring on the bearings or main journals? Can you...

So you can turn the engine using hands on the flywheel with no gloves? You replaced the starter? Any chance you got a 12 volt one? Where did you get it? What batteries are you using size wise....group 31s? If I could turn an engine with no gloves on a flywheel being locked up is something...

I got mine a few years ago not running as well...took a few fuses and it's been running since!! Very power full gensets.

I'd heat that block up nice and slow with a map gas or flat torch. That should be a tapered thread that don't like to come out.

That's a civi top no biggie!! I have a civi out back I had to look at it. The civi truck rear slider uses the same lock to hold it shut...unless there's a hole in the glass then it's a different setup that kinda pricy.

Probably binding the gears in the sun with the band too.

My 803 recently is starting fine but not firing on cylinder 3 and 4!! I turn in the idle knob to increase rpm and in about 10 minutes they start working...I'd be curious as to what you find. Mine is a low hour 160 as well. The valve sticking does make sense because it does smoke a good bit...

Ok, so today we picked up 4 wheels, radiator, tailgate and starter for his project 1009-2...the guy that had it had no idea if the starter is 12 volt or 24. Is there any way to tell by looking at it internally, etc? There aren't any markings on it but where a sticker was. It was in the blazer...

It does point to that! I haven't seen one out that bad though...10 volts is a ton!! Be curious to see.

Glad you got the hubs figured out! On the trans though...so to be clear, it won't move until you rev it up some after sitting for a few days...does it do that going into drive as well or just reverse? It also takes a few days for this to happen? Sounds like the converter is draining down...