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Ken, thats really a test for the 6.5L engines with the electronic fuel control (FSD). our injector pumps arent affected by this.

its a bad seal, not your fault at all.

the hmmwv solenoid would make it so the truck wouldnt start, since 12v wouldnt be enough to activate it. Sounds like you have the shutoff under the top cover in there wrong or it is stuck.

yup, its all in the unit manual, in the sticky at the top of the cucv forum.

Those are the different GM axles that where put under the trucks & blazers. 10bolt= used on the 1/2ton trucks and blazers (it has 10 bolts holding the cover on the differential) it has ball-joints and is not known for being a strong axle. Used in the front and rear. 12bolt= used on the light...

if your alternators are putting out the correct voltage, then you can just leave the idiot lights. you should have 14.5volts while running on the drivers side alternator and ~29volts at the passenger side alternator while running.

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Methanol up again.... rapeseed is one of the most effecient plants for obtaining oil from, and its rather hardy as well.

i forgot about the detroit fitting inside the carrier on the 14bolt, that will help with price. 3.73 is probably the perfect gear with nearly stock tires. anything taller (numerically lower) and you will give up pulling power.

i hate to say this, but you either have an issue with the glow plug temp sensor on the engine or the injector pump is rather worn and will be in need of a rebuild soon.

14bolt rear axles are CHEAP, you'd have to move the spring perches for the m1009 though (not that its hard to do :) ) look for a dana44 for the front of the 1009, it will bolt in, you can find a 3/t ton model that will have 8lug hubs to match the 14bolt. or you can get a 1/2ton d44 and look for...

in front of the pump, the lift pump on the side of the block should be putting out ~5-7psi. you dont have a guage that will read the pressure on the injector lines, they run at ~1900psi

if you got a 1" zero rate block for the front you could space the axle 1.5" forward in the opening. then the tires would prolly have fit fine [thumbzup]

you must change the carrier the split for these axles is 4.10&down or 4.56&up

also fyi, over time any small amount of air still in the engine will be absorbed into the coolant.

to change the gears to a numericaly lower set, you must change out the carriers in both axles as well, and remember in the rear its a detroit locker. your looking at over $1000 to change out the gears. thats why many put a mild lift on the truck and larger tires to drop the ratio. with my 38"...

its a several Mb pdf file, but should have all the info you need to start the troubleshooting process.

grab the engine manual from the sticky at the top of the forum, it has troubleshooting steps.

to get it to sputter off of ether, you must have the glow plugs threaded into the engine, not hooked up. otherwise its not going to build any pressure in the cylinders.

unless you have changed the stock wiring for the glow plug power source from the resistor to the front battery, the 60g's are not the correct plug. Over time they will all burn out, since they are getting more voltage then designed to handle. The correct plugs are Wellman 070's. As you notice...

I wont be attending this year, doing haspin and the GA rally. If you need any help coordinating or updating the site, let me know. I'm up till the wee hours of the morning most nights and can post up if anyone is having issues or is running late.