Search results

then it still points to the steering box. one thing you could try is to back off the adjustment screw on the steering box some, this will actually loosen the inards of the box some. maybe your box is binding. there is a nut with a flat for a screwdriver on the top of the box. you loosen the nut...

I would also recommend that you replace that cable, while your at it, clean up the battery terminals as well. as stated above resistance on the wire will cause heat.

that would work out better. I'll check back with you closer to that time of the year.

Re: RE: Tracking the elusive Weatherization Kit westy you have incoming PM

RE: 85 chevy some of the 6.2's had the dampened crank pulley as well. that was nothing new for the 6.5 I'm considering getting the new fluiddamper for mine in a year or two. the damper looks good on mine, but I'll be in there anyways putting the gear drive in for the cam.

OMG $300 for a 6tl. I just got one for $140 (NO CORE CHARGE) and it was not a blemish (i asked, they were out.) Also my deka 6tl has a 1yr (might be 2yr i dont remember.) warrenty.

RE: 85 chevy yup, even the 6.2 has had some headgasket issues, but the current gaskets fix those issues. the 6.2 suffers from heat cracks in the heads near the valve seats, not usually an issue and can be fixed with bronze inserts. and also cracks near the main webs on the block, usual culprit...

well, a guy up near me and mike had a ton of them for sale, but they were all sold a little over a year ago

without the inner snap ring in place, it will wreck the seal that seals the stub shaft to the back side of the hub.

i agree, get the front of the truck off the ground (support the front axle with two jackstands) and check for any play in the steering linkage, also have a buddy look to see if the steering box is pulling from the frame at all. If everything looks good. get a new box from the local parts store...

RE: 85 chevy THE 350 DIESEL IS NOT, REPEAT NOT, A CONVERTED GAS ENGINE. None of the parts interchange. the only thing that is the same is the outer block casting. The main reason for all the 350diesel failures was very poor headgaskets, a simple switch to studs would fix that issue.

HAHA, thats a chevy motor dude, parts are CHEAP!!!

i posted the gatorback goodyear belt #'s a while back. I would recommend that if you need an alternator, just have your current one rebuilt. Its a standard 12v alternator, with one exception. It has an ISOLATED GROUND, be very clear to the guy at the alternator shop. They are used to doing...

rear blocks would be okay in that instance, if first they were solid steel blocks, and second they were fully welded to both the frame and the suspension support. the rods look to have been cut in the middle of their length, then a tube sleeve was placed in the middle and was hopefully fully...

j2h, you need to replace the flasher relay under the dash to fix the turn signals. check the fuse for the headlights, if thats good, pull the harness off of one of the lights. black is ground, i cant remember which terminal is low beams or high, but you should have 12v to one of the terminals...

you can install a switch to lock it manually, or to keep it from locking

the converter will lock up based on engine load once you are in fourth gear.

RE: congrads on the new purchase. your gonna love it. you can order a new seatbelt from LMC truck. as with most of the body panels that you will need. the nice thing with these trucks is that sheetmetal is so cheap for them.

1800 rpm wouldnt lug too bad at all, under load it wouldnt lock the torque converter at those rpms. once you got up to speed the TC would lock and you will get great fuel mileage. Also with the 700r4, it has a much lower first gear and as long as its built properly will last a very long time.

the only difference might be in the rear spring hangers, but that would be different mounts, not a frame difference.