Search results

CHECK THE GROUNDS!!!! its the most common issue with lights the 6v line is for the marker lights, 12v gives you the turn signal

they are called "jack nuts" and you can find them on the internet as well

I am going to lock this thread, as it doesnt pertain to CUCV's

I made it home in one piece, had to breakdown a rim ~100 miles south of toledo due to a flat. but smooth sailing after that.

I have the rims on my truck without any recentering, to compensate for this i run a 2" dually spacer on each side of the front axle. You will not need any spacers if you are having the rims recentered. I run a set of metal beadlock inserts on my truck. I got them for $55 each, a guy on pirate4x4...

I am still at Gilbert's house and will be headed home to MI in the morning. I have the Engine block and mermites for you CS, but the m105 sides were not at the show to pick up. I will post my pics and a link to the video of the crane lift when i get home tomorrow.

just wanted to post an update, I have not left MI yet due to a issue with a banjo bolt. I will be on the way to gilberts by around 0730. The truck is packed, just waiting on a parts store to open. My cell # is (586)615-1640 , I will be headed down I-75 to findley OH, then OH-15 to US-23 and...

i just realised, yup the smaller card is not a gp card. my truck has both as well. thats not the correct location for the gp card to be, should be to the left of the gas pedal when looking in from the drivers side of the truck. sorry for not catching it sooner.

I just did it on my truck yesterday, have pics and will post a writeup after i get back from aberdeen.

I would recommend eventually getting the bolt-on frame brace. but since your not doing any hardcore stuff, I doubt that you would have any issues until you get it. I would check to make sure the steering box bolts are tight every month or so, just DONT OVERTORQUE THEM. The frame is not really...

that is soooo unsafe. :shock: :shock: :shock: If you are gonna jack up the truck you could at leat take off the front wheels prior to unbolting the tcase, then you would have it lower before raising it, and you should crib under the front of it, I just hope that he at least blocked the rear...

the ac60g's will burn out quickly in the cucv, since at initial turn on they get hit with ~18volts until the resistor heats up and brings the voltage down to the 12v range.

These plugs WILL NOT SWELL. they are self-limiting so they dont overheat and droop.

Wellman says the 070 is the THE plug to use in a stock CUCV. The best place I have seen to get them, is ind-usa on ebay here is a link to them. http://shortlinks.net/tlr890

you say that its 12v, did you pull the second alternator?

nice looking truck, yes you prolly burned out the GP card. I would wire the gp's up to be on a manual button, unless you want it to be original. you can purchase the gp cards. I have seen them on ebay every once in awhile, they usually go for around $70.

If the wiring change doesnt work, then you need to check that the glow plugs are heating up, check that the glow plug relay on the firewall is supplying current to the plugs when you hit the button. If you get voltage then you need to start checking the glow plugs to be sure that they are not...

I am losing the parking brake with the rear disc conversion. I will end up getting a line-lock for the rear line to keep them applied when I need the parking brake. I will prolly get a manual one with a lever and just engage it when needed. I'm not sure if i trust the electric ones.

I ran 285's without any problems. And that was withe the saggy front springs. With new fronts springs you should be able to run those tires without any problems. I suspect that 305's would fit without any issues with new factory height springs.

you dont need to ground out the side of the wire that goes into the card. wire up the other side of your switch to a good ground, but the rest of the instructions are spot on. Post up if you still have issues and we'll help you through troubleshooting