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gasket maybe? there is a large base gasket. You can remove the air pump clean the gasket surfaces off really well and make a new paper one or use RTV for a new one. should not be a bad job at all.
sounds like you have a problem with the brakes there. Have you rebuilt the air pack or master cylinder? I would get a couple rebuild kits and do it to it. Do the master and the air pack. Use DOT 3 fluid (much cheaper) and works just as good in the 6x6's. Only thing I did different with DOT 3 is...
I get A LOT of parts and things off ebay. Yes it takes some time to find stuff but over 230 buys and only lost 60 bucks. (That was before paypal was around)
look on ebay.. I found 3 of them that could work for under 125 shipped. You would want to install new joints for sure buy you still under 150 all said and done.
I used a heat gun.. the paint comes right off. Then I sanded it with a DA sander with 200 grit. Blow off the dust.. wipe with a cleaner/prep and paint away.
order the correct one off the net like from Napa, Autozone, anyplace. Only takes 2 or 3 days to get the correct part. I would try to keep the correct pump in there if I could.
I remember you talking about doing this swap a couple years ago when I stopped by your shop. I think we were talking about doing it on a bobbed deuce. The 700 should hold up fine. My friend had one behind a 454 pushing well over 600 HP. Never had a problem, had many up grades and a HUGE cooler...
If it is pitch black out ( no moon or any other lights) you can see with the black out drive light. You can drive around 10 MPH and thats about max before you over drive the light. The light in the bumpers are for telling distance from your truck. Search Black out lights and you will find out...
There seams to be a plug of some sort under there. I dont have a pump that is taken out right now but it looks to be # 30 & 31. Might be able to replace the gasket/seal. but on that note.. after one seal goes to heck.. Im sure more will leak soon too.. might be a good idea to replace or rebuild...
I don't know about you guys but when I rebuilt the top end and installed a injection pump off a 5 ton I had all the power I needed. Really I could keep up with the over the road trucks no problem on the interstate. The only problem was the 9% grades + on the up side. It would slow down to 45 but...
the brakes will still work with out AIR. Just no power assist. If the brakes dont even work just the engine and put it in low gear low range and and let it (not running) idle down the hill and use the parking brake. If all is lost hook up a tow rope (at least a 20k) and use a truck to slow it...
ok.... here we go.. The reason for the steering wheel becoming all sticky is the polymers are starting to degrade and "leak" out. you can wipe it off with paint thinner but he is right you will have to replace it.
" Seriously, most likely it is just sweat, grime, and oil" if that were true my...
its the kin pins! Its called death wobble. All you need is the upper bushings and springs. The lowers never go bad. here is what a rebuild kit looks like.
you know this is the reason why I am leaving SS. Im NOT a spammer, crack pot, a bit-cher, I was stating having offensive avatars. In no way did I state you had to have a MV avatar. Are you people for real? I was making a referance to other off road sites and how they stray. Im sure forums of all...
This is a suggestion to all members.
I guess I am old school but I am starting to see many members with Avatars that might not be that appropriate for a MILITARY VEHICLE web site. I know we all are working hard to keep this site on track and not stray in to other areas of the universe like...
The way I was able to reach 67 MPH with my deuce was 11:00 tires and a injection pump off a 5 ton multi and I gave that a couple turns on the fuel. I would rum 28-2900 RPM.
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