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Correct any misconception's I have - My understanding is that due to the 6:1 difference in rotational speed, pinion brakes are really only useful at low speed. Use at higher speeds result in rapid melting of components without much slowing of the vehicle. Obviously i have no hands on...

Yes, but in your case there's not the remotest expectation of a cold engine.

Mine crawled onto the gooseneck in preparation to go to its new home this week. It got some new brake line a couple of days ago. It has a NOS airpack on the way. I'm pressed for time, so the airpack is going to get delivered and installed at handoff. That'll make a good opportunity to go...

Typically they will do 65-70. They're detuned to live forever. Not to control speed. Speed is ultimately limited by the gear ratio. There's no overdrive to hit (not in the transmission anyway) Just how fast do you want to go in a 23,000lb truck?

That weight doesn't sound right for the 9.00R20. That, or I'm a monster. I pick them up pretty easily. I suspect that it's 270lbs per pair of them maybe. Edit -

I don't follow your math. The $240 is for all the hardware for the entire set. And this isn't a for sale ad - I don't have any of it for sale. This is what to expect to pay, reasonable retail. (Not in PA)

395s are more plentiful, easier to source, and cheaper. They also look better. Makes it an easy decision. 365's are for when you want dualled 11.00r20's on the back, and super singles on the front. Same (more or less) diameter . Expect to pay $350ish for NOS 395s on aluminum MRAP rims...

Wes likes to modify and upgrade. The truck has a cooler, but Wes sees room for improvement. I leave mine stock. Wes is a very good source of information for what works and what doesn't. He puts more miles on his 5ton than any 5 people I know. There's no substitute for sample size...

Appropriate coolers are here - https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?162929-MK48-parts

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Unless you can demonstrate that you've done it, I'm calling bulls hit on this one... In fact, give me a couple of weeks and I'll be able to demonstrate that this will not work: I'll put a hmmwv on towbars and drag it with the transmission in gear. It won't start.

There's more to it than that. The worst riding truck I've ever been in is the M818 pictured in my avatar. It has 16.00R20s AT2A on the early hemtt rim. The horrible ride is easily attributed to the short wheelbase and heavy reinforced frame. Clearly there's more than one variable at play.

Are you using it commercially? If so, then yes absolutely. If not, then it gets fuzzy and varies by state. My best guess says any LEO who sees a skidsteer onboard will consider you commercial....

I'm not so sure. The smoothest riding 5ton I've driven is Lindsey97's tan M923 with HEMTT rims and 16.00R20 XZLs. I speculate that the taller sidewalls allow for more flex. (I've driven bunches of these trucks with all kinds of tires and sizes. Lindsey's truck stands out. )

Legally I believe you're obligated to. 24 to 12 converter and brake controller should solve this easily. Practically i don't think it's really going to have any effect on stopping distance. I've towed deuces (14k or so) and my 1ton pickup (11k maybe - welder in the bed) and not noticed them...

Only if you know how to go around the neutral safety . Or am I missing something?

I've towed an M925A1 with the bed full of engine blocks on towbar on the pintle. M925A1 is something like 23,500 and there was every bit of 10k in the bed of the towed truck.

Not even if you try...