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I noticed that they can't get the antenna grommet either. :-)

I had this happen and I have new hoses and calipers, in my case the guide pin just had some crud on it and needed to be cleaned and greased so the pads could retract smoothly. Check the guide pins.

I would have him get the title, I've lived in Texas my entire life, bought many old vehicles and even imported one from Canada, I had no undue trouble ever getting a title if it's legit. Generally you have to pass inspection first, it is mechanical only what was applicable in the year it was...

I have no first hand experience, this is on my to do list but when I have a similar quandary I look at where it was made which is often listed by the part sellers, if both come from the same country I assume that they are the same just rebranded and buy the cheaper or better warranty one...

If it doesn't work my guess is wrong flexplate, cracked bolthole or not, if it is torqued to specs against a flat surface and the support bracket and starter are correct, the parts will be in the same alignment, if two gears get stuck and are in the same plane, the only realistic option is one...

Are you sure the flexplate is 139 tooth? Gas civy blazers got a 168 tooth flexplate

I'm also positive it has nothing to do with the charging circuit, but drock should have 14.2-14.8 at alt 1 if it works, he has 12v and that is enough to run everything else, I am trying to give him a way that could rule out a errant voltmeter or a real alt 1 issue, that is all I am trying to say.

I assume that the voltage gets too low on the 12v circuit to hold down the solenoid that activates the pump plunger, all I know is I had this same problem, fixed gen 2, no dice, at the same time I was cursing my new wiper motor for quitting and after I fixed gen 1 both worked, battery only if...

A working alternator puts out approx 14.4 v I think gen 1 is bad. One thing I have found will point to gen 1 is assuming you have a working OEM style wiper motor, if the washer will no longer engage I consider that confirmation of a gen 1 problem.

I had a very similar issue but gen 1 light would strobe, it was a blown rectifier in gen 1 and this seemed to prevent gen 2 from working properly.

This was a retraining in "if you want it done right do it yourself" when I got the truck the steering was so bad I had about 90 degrees of free play. I was busy and had plenty to do so I subbed out a new box to a precision tune. They installed a light duty version, makes sense as it was $250...

At some point, I believe 86, GM changed the front aluminum housing to a no shim design, these are stamped "no shim". I prefer the 27 direct drive starter and the two I have I rebuilt myself. They can be very frustrating in the last steps. I.e. Keeping the brushes spread and leads out of the way...

Here is the new one I have installed

I found someone to make me one that is perfect, I attach pictures of my old one and a sample the guy sent of his work. I will need to get a photo of the new one I have. His name is Jeff Lampe, jeff@outintheshop.com, cost is $53 including shipping in US and it has the clear vinyl sheet to...

I should clarify, my intention was not to cut off all electrical, just the main 24V leg to the starter. In the end, it is as many have said before, if you take care of your batteries and everything is in order, it isn't needed.

I had the same line of thought but those big switches are huge and I was worried that god forbid I drop a tool or one gets up under the dash or something metal comes loose I could end up with a screwdriver or wrench arc welded across the terminals. It would take about a 3" pipe to build some...

Having given serious thought to a battery cut off, it is more complicated than is practical, a 24V cut off is a big switch that is not easily mounted and not easily protected from shorts and just cutting off 12V during a run on can cause worse or further damage I have heard. When my run on...

Sounds like the same thing that happened to me. batteries were weak, voltage drop led to high amp draw by the starter, the starter solenoid contact plate welded on from arcing. This would also have killed your alternators and burned a few fusible links. I had to rebuild both alts and the...

So, I got a full report from an alignment shop that was way more professional than the first one. It has excessive toe in and the pitman arm is not in the best shape, but not totally shot yet. I am going to replace the arm and then have the alignment done.

Noise suppressor. It is 3 ceramic caps, 1uf, .1uf and .01uf, but it is not critical.