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Does it give you any codes now? There is a throttle position sensor on the engine also. I believe there is an adjustment procedure in the tm for it.

If someone really wants the truck they can tow it away. I have keyed ignitions in all my trucks. Anything added is just an additional layer of deterrent and a bit more safety so a dummy doesn't just jump in a start messing with controls. With the bigger trucks the keyed ignition is more secure I...

The output speed sensor on the trans is a common failure item. Sometimes it will be a bit off and not throw a code. It's an inexpensive easy part to replace.

No only the 30s and 60s. I haven't seen any of the 15k kits around.

What was your trans issue again? It's a big job to swap a trans in that truck. I have heard of people dropping the trans and being able to slide it sideways and out but it's tight.

Manuals are in the tm section. Did you drain the fuel tank first and change the filters? Cold kicks the rpms up. Check for dry rotted fuel line too. Once you get all that done and some fresh fuel in there chances are it will run better.

I like that. I was thinking of ways to lock the e brake up so some dummy can't get in and release it.

Its part of the trucks design. I have never seen one fail. I would leave it the way it is.

Its part of the thermal cutout design. With the thermal protection on the starter when it went into overtemp, the aux solenoid coils ground would be disrupted.

Check battery connections. Take them off clean them and tighten. You can check the fuel solenoid connection to the injection pump.

If its the 4 post first gen one its just 12 in 12 out and 24 in 24 out. Only cab power goes thru it. There is a separate 24v lead to the starter from the batts. If you have 12 and 24 at the panel then its good. Just a simple diode array to prevent someone from hooking up the batteries backwards...

All the ones I saw out of CA were r22. The newer ones are 407c.

When the truck won't start, take a screwdriver and jump the 2 big terminals on the solenoid. If it still won't start, go to the starter the post closest to the block on the solenoid is the positive. Get a clip lead on there and touch the other end to 24v. Most intermittent start issues are...

With brakes released there is air being sent to the rear chambers to keep them released. If the diaphragm is leaking it can be fixed by a heavy truck shop. I personally don't open brake chambers.

If you get tired of playing with your old pump I have mil reman ones

Spec is 22 front 20 rear I believe. If you do alot of highway driving then having it a big higher is probably better. I think 35 is a bit too high though.

Truck warm, engine running in neutral.

Is yours bad? Not a high failure part.

If it fits it should work. Screw in till it just touches the flywheel and then back off one turn and tighten down.

Will look for one tommorrow. The trans uses that for input when shifting so you could get odd shifts if it was bad.