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It works fine. The switch in the cab is three position ( in/lower, middle/hold, out/up). Basicly when you pull it all the way out it sends air pressure to the back side of the cylinder and pushes the valve in to raise. When in the middle position it exhaust the air from both of the lines going...

Well I finally got it finnished. Now I need to load it up.

Yes and no. The federal standards are the minimum standards that a state must adhere to but states can add other restrictions. I've heard tell that people in CA are having CDL issues with a deuce because CA law says that anything with three axles is considered commercial unless it is a motorhome.

:ditto: I'm at about 6 weeks on my last EUC. I buy stuff all the time so this is far from my first. My first EUC didn't take this long. :mad: The waiting is bad enough but since they started taking you're money at auction close it really makes me mad. I sure hope they are having fun with my...

I had an old deuce frame that I was thinking about scraping a couple of weeks ago but never got around to it. I'm glad I didn't. On my deuce dump project I've used several parts off of it that I never knew I needed. I found out that if you need to move your air tanks you can take another set...

When the bead is stuck/rusted really good to the rim you really need something to "wedge" between the tire and the wheel. I'd be careful using a hyd press. You could build up alot of pressure and if something slips parts could go flying. To be honest, short of a hyd bead breaker (or maybe a...

I bet the jackhammer would work. Just be careful you don't damage the wheel.

Make sure you've got a 120psi sender. If for some reason you have a 60psi sender you 120 gauge will show half of accual oil pressure. If your readings are correct that is a little on the low side. I think the TM calls 8psi as being the minimum pressure allowed. Could be that your pressure...

Got the bed back on the truck today. Still have the pumbing to do but I got to see the bed raise with the help of my tractor hyd. As you can see in the pics above, I added some 2X2X1/4 square tube to the bottom of the bed rails. The bed is sitting about 1 1/2" taller than stock. Gringeltaube...

"04J-33071" is your registration number. It is a number used by the military similar to a License plate. It has no real bearing in the civilain world.

This is the VIN "0539-12299".

More pics.

While it's not likely either of these two things could get damaged without damaging the radiator also but the A3 could have trans cooler or intercooler damage that a A2 cannot. :wink:

Here's some pics of what I've got done so far.

My plan is to mount the valve outside the cab and attach a air cylinder to it. Inside the cab I will mount an air switch to operate the valve. The valve I'm going to use is similar to this.

I cut the hinges out of the bed I robbed the hoist out of. The reason I didn't use them was because I'd have to loose my bumperettes. Most civilian dumps do use a piece of angle iron in the back to mount the hinges to. The pump is a 11GPM Vickers pump that I've had laying around for awhile...

I run farm tags here in TN. They are a weighted tag but they are cheaper than commercial. I can haul whatever I want and don't have to deal with any of the commercial regs. I don't know if farm tags are an option in other states but if they are you might want to check into them.

The truck was originaly a gasser. The fenders are different from the multifuel trucks but they will interchange. I bet the t-case had the REB kit installed in '73. By 1973 all the new t-cases were air shift.

Yes. I'd give that for it in a heartbeat if it was close to home. As Kenny said, that REB kit is worth a bunch and it also has a t-case PTO that is worth some bucks.

Got the pump mounted and built a hyd tank to go over the spare tire carrier today. I ended up having to move one of the air tanks to the other side of the frame to make room for the pump driveshaft. I didn't have my camera with me today but I'll take some pics tomorrow.